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Interesting, do you have any pics of your electric solenoid valve in the fuel line???

No but is quite simple. Just cut the fuel line where you have enough room to insert the fuel solenoid switch. Then connecting the +12 to a positive in the Key switch (tipically Brown) end the other side to heart. Dont forget to put a 10ampere fuse in line with the +12 wire.

www.romanoautogas.eu/components/com_jsho...ucts/full_REB002.jpg

The Black tiny lever is a manual switch in case of the valve stop working

Every sort of valve can eventually leak. Makes no difference what activates it. The valve itself (not the actuator) is little different from the float valves or the valve in a manual petcock. Wear from usage will eventually cause seepage. It may take longer than with a neglected vacuum style, but it will happen.

You are wrong. This kind of valve is very ,very reliable and its a total different thing from that shitty vacuum petcock we have stock on your bikes.!

I did not say it was unreliable, nor did I say it is the same as a vacuum petcock.

I'd bet real money that a small bit of debris from the fuel tank could prevent that valve from fully closing just as it could do to other valves. If you are going to argue that that valve will never wear at all, then we are going to be in disagreement.

To return on topic..i was thinking about my problem of lack of vacuum and i Discovery It can be "worn valve guides admitting air and upsetting carburetion" but , i dont understand how a engine Can idle so well with a valves problem ?? Anyway im going to replace the aftermaket new intake boots with the new NOS i bought and resetting the carbs. Check again fuel level and diaphragms etcetc.
I want to do a proper bench Sync before installing Them. What is a correct gap to start with?

Take a feeler gauge and set the butterflies to the same gap/high at idle position.