Engine won't stay running; need help

That's what it looks like. I screwed it completely in and it doesn't touch. if I removed the spring, it might touch. There's maybe a 1/16 inch to 1/32 in ch gap. Not much. But enough. Or ... not enough. Depending on whether you're a pessimist or optimist. lol

Set it in the center of it's travel then adjust the slides using a small drill bit or wire. It's called bench syncing.
Steve
Start it at 3:30

Can you please upload a pic of the carb set with the idle adjuster in.

Some of the info in this thread is good stuff. I would add to slmjim's list of to-dos to replace cables and lube them and replace brake lines with modern stuff and disassemble master cylinder(s) and rebuild as needed and replace brake fluid. Replace the pads as well. This stuff is often neglected.

A common reason for the idle adjust screw not contacting the bellcrank is the wrong (too long) spring OR someone attempted to bench sync the carbs and used the adjust screws to lower the sync assemblies too low. In this case, first bend back the washer things on the M5 hex head screws. Loosen the hex head screws with a 7mm socket. Then loosen the locknuts on the adjusting screws. Back all four out and then tighten them till the slides barely touch the venturi. You MUST do all four. Now tighten your idle adjust screw so it opens up the slides just a tad. Now use the sync adjust screws with flat screwdriver to tighten them to just closed. If you leave an eyelash opening and the same on all four slides you can now tighten the hex head screws first then then hold the adjuster screws with a flat blade screwdriver and lightly tighten the lock nut. Bend the washer thing back up over the hex head screw so it doesn't loosen.

Now open your slides and you will note the assembly is bench sync'd. Open about an 1/8" so the bike will idle high when started and you will have to throttle it down once warmed. Don't put your hand on the throttle when using the choke.

OK folks, sorry for the late reply. The gap at the idle adjuster was bugging me, so I took the carbs out and found a bolt that locks the throttle pulley to the rod that runs through the carbs. I loosened it and readjusted the pulley on that rod, reinstalled the carbs and .... it ran perfectly! With a little adjustment to the idle, which is now possible with the adjuster.

So ... I took it for a ride!!! AMAZING! I made it 9 miles and it stopped running. Electrical problem. Turned out to be a blown main fuse. Replaced it and was able to drive it home again.

So now the question is ... is there a problem somewhere that caused that fuse to blow or what? I haven't been able to get down there to mess with it anymore, but my plan is to just ride it and carry a bunch of fuses until I can figure out what might be causing fuses to blow. I found some troubleshooting guides in the Clymer manual, but haven't had a chance to run through them yet.

Anyway, just didn't want to leave anyone hanging with this topic. Also, for those asking for pictures, I haven't had a phone to take any with, so no new pictures. But I have received my phone in the mail since then and will take more the next time I'm down there.

Bad contacts or connections can make them run hot. Also check your main ground to the engine.
Steve

Will do. The box and fuses were in perfect shape as far as I could see. No corrosion or anything. I didn't check the ground though. Not yet anyway. I'll be riding with a pocket full of fuses though. lol

If you have a schematic look at the path from the main fuse to the several fused circuits after that. It can be rubbed through wire insulation causing a short to ground between the two. Less resistance with the same voltage causes increased current flow. A hot wire touching the frame is no resistance and will pop the fuse.

VTEC wrote: If you have a schematic look at the path from the main fuse to the several fused circuits after that. It can be rubbed through wire insulation causing a short to ground between the two. Less resistance with the same voltage causes increased current flow. A hot wire touching the frame is no resistance and will pop the fuse.

I will point out that any short; that is bare wire that is a hot wire touching a ground will blow a fuse. In almost every case, the main fuse will blow. If you have a dark garage you can foll the bike into and take off seat, side cover and perhaps the gas tank, if you turn the bike on and the fuse blows, you can often see where in the dark. If it takes awhile for the fuse to blow and it only happens when riding the bike, this method won't work too well, of course.

Many times when checking over wires, you will see a little evidence of where it arced on the ground. Also check inside the headlight shell,

I took my chances the other day and drove the bike. I didn't have any issues with electrical or anything. Everything was perfect. I probably put on 50 miles. For the time being, I think I'm going to button it all back up and just ride it. I love being on a bike again. It's been too long.

Safe riding
Steve

Here's a new pic of her.