Engine won't stay running; need help

So they need to come off again. Not the end of the world. Especially now that I've done it once already.

I see you have gone through the carbs, but have you changed out the fuel filters and checked the petcock filter if the bike has one?

nh.craigslist.org/mpo/d/kawasaki-kzinto-...aust/6581420071.html

I saw these pipes on craigslist they are LTD pipes but I am guessing they would fit you ride for small money. I'm a fan of stock pipes and carb filters and air box. Good luck with your bike, it is so great that it was your father's and now yours!
SteveP

petcock filter is clean. Plenty of fuel is leaving the tank. I didn't see any filters beyond the petcock. After reading over the carb 101 and 102 articles, it looks like I forgot to clean out the fuel/air screws.

All carb parts seperated.

As its been stood for 25 years you need to 110% sure all the carb passages and jets are 100% clean. Old fuel leaves a varnish when it dry's. Ultrasonic cleaning will dislodge the varnish but it wont remove it from the passage. You need to get high pressure air through them to get all the old shit out after a sonic bath.
When you think they are clean, do them again to ensure they are clean.

That's a really decent KZ!

Looks like the airbox snorkel is propping seat up in one pic. Snorkels are usually one of the first things to disappear. Don't discard any airbox parts. If you don't keep the bike, the next owner will likely be very grateful they're there when they dump the pods.

Get the bike running right with everything stock before you consider modifying anything. Like installing pods. Pods will just be the beginning of your problems.

Sounds like a disassembly & deep-cleaning of the carbs in an ultrasonic tank is in order. Even if a probe will pass through a tiny orifice like a pilot jet, that doesn't mean it's really clean. There can be residue on the orifices walls that reduce/restrict the effective size of the jet's orifice. Ultrasonic action in an appropriate chemical solution will reach deep into such recesses and remove residue & microscopic debris.

Broadly, the order of waking up a Z-bike from deep sleep is:
brakes (make sure it'll stop before you make it go),
fresh rubber,
valves,
oil/filterchange,
points gap (dwell),
spark timing,
fuel filtration,
carbs.


Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Running with choke on spells lack of fuel. Old faithful test is shooting carb cleaner in the airbox. If it then runs in modes it didn't previously, it's definitely fuel. Probably still clogged jet's and/or passages. I'd replace the jets.

Thanks everyone for the input. I really appreciate all of it. I drove down to my pop's place today to mess with it before work. Took the carbs off again and messed with them some more.

Something I noticed is that the idle adjuster doesn't even touch the throttle thingy. With no cables connected at all, it's completely ineffective. So, once I got the carbs back on, I kept the throttle on just a tad, then I was able to take the choke all the way off. But without modifying something, I have no way to adjust the idle up. Unless I can do it via the throttle cables themselves. Otherwise, I'll need to weld an extra quarter inch of adjuster to the end of the .... adjuster.

Thoughts?

Sounds like the carbs have been taken off before and played with, then not been set up correctly after, best thing you can do is get a manual and set up by the book after they have been properly cleaned, and don't use wire from anything as this is so amateur and can damage the drillings in the jets and carbs, if that happens it will get more expensive

I don't know. It's only got 11k miles on the bike and the only people to ever work on it was the Kawasaki shop in town. Then there was me. But all I did was disconnect the cables to get the carbs out to clean them. I never messed with the idle adjuster. I've gone over that entire area of the carbs and everything looks intact. Nothing looks bent or modified in any way. Unless the entire mechanism has rotated in some way. I didn't look for that. Just thought about it. Damn. Now I need to go back and check for that. Tomorrow.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThis is what it should look like although the thread looks badly worn on this one. But it gives you some scale. It adjusts by screwing into the holder. In increases idle, out decreases idle. Are you sure its not just unscrewed to the point of not touching the cable butterfly?