Cam timing one tooth off

Would the exhaust valves be bent if the cams are one tooth retarded?
Steve

Shouldn't be.
I've had plenty of Z engines in with the timing 1 tooth out and all they do is run a bit flat.
Once it's been corrected they run fine.

How about advanced?
Steve

I've had them in with both advanced and retarded by a tooth and luckily nothing has clashed.
It's usually where either they've got the timing marks wrong and counted 28 back from the wrong tooth or jumped a tooth on the crank one way or the other.
Only way to tell for sure though without pulling the head is to do a leak down once the timing has been corrected.
I use a coupling in the plug hole for the compressor ( can make one from an old spark plug ) and lightly pressurise each cylinder at tdc on compression/firing stroke whilst listening for leaks at the exhaust.

I had it happen once a million years ago. 20 miles from home in bad area of town
.Didnt know what it was until I got home and opened it up.
No damage . Just ran like a city bus. Slowwwwwwwwwwwwww acceleration
Dave

I rotated the engine and didn't feel any resistance. The valves seemed louder once I got it right but I suspect I may have nicked the exhaust valves. It's running good and is quieting down. I'll be installing my new APE studs soon so I'll be checking them then. I planed on "tipping" them anyway.
Steve

Suspect they may be more danger if high compression pistons are fitted.

I didn't intend to start a flame war over this subject. I appreciate the positive responses.
I have Wiseco K 1015 10.25/1 pistons
Andrews 1X cams
Grind Lift Duration Timing TDC CL ANGLE LASH
1X in .344 260 deg 24/56 .104 106 .004
ex .344 260 deg 56/24 104 106 .004
With stock pistons and cams I wouldn't have been so concerned.
Thoughts?
Steve

SWest wrote: I didn't intend to start a flame war over this subject. I appreciate the positive responses.
I have Wiseco K 1015 10.25/1 pistons
Andrews 1X cams
Grind Lift Duration Timing TDC CL ANGLE LASH
1X in .344 260 deg 24/56 .104 106 .004
ex .344 260 deg 56/24 104 106 .004
With stock pistons and cams I wouldn't have been so concerned.
Thoughts?
Steve

Steve
When I had my cam chain jump I was running almost the same combo you are now running
IE, 1075 wiscos 10.5 to 1 Kenny Harmon cams , APE valve springs
NO Damage other than to my pride LOL
Also on a side note, If you can afford to get the APE cylinder head nuts , Its not a bad thing to do with the APE cylinder studs. That being said I ran stock nuts for a long time but had them start to strip out on my last overhaul. Just a heads up on a future issue.
Dave

I got thinking about this and went on APE site nosing around.
I have in my motor a little trick that I installed after the cam chain jumped during my turbo conversion/ or maybe it was when I installed the 1200cc kitprior to turbo...
APE used to make a insert that installed inside the main bearing cap that filled the gap between the chain and the cap with a hard plastic ( Kinda like the material snowmobile track slides are made of ) And this prevented the chain from ever jumping time as the room needed to do so was now gone. It is still in my motor now so I cant take a picture with out a teardown ( sorry )
Maybe some one has one or some one should make these again

Dave

Street Fighter LTD wrote: I got thinking about this and went on APE site nosing around.
I have in my motor a little trick that I installed after the cam chain jumped during my turbo conversion/ or maybe it was when I installed the 1200cc kitprior to turbo...
APE used to make a insert that installed inside the main bearing cap that filled the gap between the chain and the cap with a hard plastic ( Kinda like the material snowmobile track slides are made of ) And this prevented the chain from ever jumping time as the room needed to do so was now gone. It is still in my motor now so I cant take a picture with out a teardown ( sorry )
Maybe some one has one or some one should make these again

Dave

Here you go.
This one is alloy from Pogue Machine which I use as a pattern for making my own.
I wouldn't use this one as it's a bit of a vintage piece now.
Does the same job as the bolt in the later J/GPZ motors and stops the chain skipping teeth when pulling the top end.
Saves a lot of time at the track.

Didn't want to admit this but back in 06 I changed out a few shims on the exc side and buttoned it up and put it away for the winter. Next spring it fired up pretty decent and rode it a few times. Took it out a few more and although first through 3rd seemed pretty strong 4th and 5th was pretty doggy and I thought well maybe new plugs and a timing check might be in order (not even thinking about being a tooth off).

A little later I took it out to our two lane 1/4 mile blacktop and ran it though missing 4th gear very badly ( I can still picture it how slowly I reacted) (had 3 or 4 vodka and orange juice just before and I in partly blame it on that) .... (along with being retarded)...... started running on 1 or two cylinders and it hit me like a ton of bricks that I changed out the exc cam the year before and it was because of that.......... I was right no comp in 2 and 3.... 25 lbs in 4 and "1 had a normal 150 so I got home limping on it and 4. After checking the timing I saw I was one tooth retarded on the exc. (Trust me I felt a little retarded over the whole thing too).

After taking the head off all 4 exc valves had a half round mark where they slammed into the pistons. (Same matching mark on the pistons too so I didn't trust them either thinking it might have cracked or weakened them)......It then sat till 2012 when I re did it......... so to make a long story short no normal running will not bend a valve but a hard miss shift very likely will.