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overhaul engine top
- gordone
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I have overhauled my top, valve and valve seat. Is there a way I can measure what shims I need for the valve clearness, before I install everything?
Or must I just mount everything and then measure the air gap the normal way and then order shims?
Just try to save some time
1981 KZ650-D4, with 1981 z750L engine (Wiensco 810 big bore).
Project:
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/607213...sr-1981-z750l-engine
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- GUTS
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- baldy110
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- gordone
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baldy110 wrote: Not so easy if it's a kz650. Gotta pull cams for shim changes
z750L, the idea was I could purchase new shims now before I started to re assembly the engine.
But I will go for normal valve clearness measurement then.
Thank you for taking time to help me.
1981 KZ650-D4, with 1981 z750L engine (Wiensco 810 big bore).
Project:
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/607213...sr-1981-z750l-engine
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- KZB2 650
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Nessium showed how to use vice grips to hold em down to help with that. I tried clamps but could never seem to get them right. And be sure to raise the head up with 2 by 4s on the very ends of the head so the valves don't hit the bench and bend.
1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
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- gordone
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KZB2 650 wrote: I bench shimmed mine so it was all ready when installed. If you do that be careful of the cap bolts as you will install em and remove em plenty of times. (Why I installed all heli coils so I didn't have to worry about striping one).
Nessium showed how to use vice grips to hold em down to help with that. I tried clamps but could never seem to get them right. And be sure to raise the head up with 2 by 4s on the very ends of the head so the valves don't hit the bench and bend.
I`m sorry, but my English is not my native language so I have problem to follow you through your guide....
I can have the top loose and install existing shims and both camshaft and measure the gap while I have the block loose on the bench? And when I want to take the next two valves I need to remove the camshaft and turn it around and then mount it again?
I`m sorry I don`t understand you 100%.... its not your language... me leak of skills.
These really interesting for me, since I`m living in Scandinavia it take time and money to order shims to times... so if I can doing it only ones it will be perfect.
1981 KZ650-D4, with 1981 z750L engine (Wiensco 810 big bore).
Project:
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/607213...sr-1981-z750l-engine
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- SWest
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Steve
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- gordone
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SWest wrote: If you have the barrels off they can be used as a stand for the head. If you can afford the shim assortment, they will last you as long as you own the bike.
Steve
I see, but when I rig up these test on the bench, can just skip using shims when I measure the air-gap, and then see what gap I have and find the correct shims to fill the gap?
I was thinking if mine shims is to thick I will not get any air gap?
Or will the air gap be looser now after the overhaul, and then tighter and tighter over time?
1981 KZ650-D4, with 1981 z750L engine (Wiensco 810 big bore).
Project:
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/607213...sr-1981-z750l-engine
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- KZB2 650
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When you get all 4 ex sizes figured out remove the ex cam one final time (leaving the shims and buckets in place) or I suppose you could remove and use the shims for the intake .......just be sure you keep the size recorded to put them back in place and move onto the intake cam. Don't leave the ex cam in it as the timing will be off and when you do the intake cam the valves can hit each other and bend. Some shoot for the middle range .005 and some try for the high end .007 like I did (up to you on that)......... .003 to .007 is the tightest and loosest recommended range.
When APE did mine they must have ground the tips so that the shims were close to what I had before and like you say you might need to go smaller to get the right gap. Hope this is a little clearer for you to follow. Don't feel bad its even a little confusing to me after re reading it.:ohmy:
1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
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- gordone
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but all inlet valves was to tight with the thinnest shims I had....
I have now ordered the thinnest shims 2.0 hope I will got some clearness with them so I can measure what I need on the inlet valves also....
1981 KZ650-D4, with 1981 z750L engine (Wiensco 810 big bore).
Project:
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/607213...sr-1981-z750l-engine
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- gregoryzim
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Tks
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