Valve Cover Gasket Tips ?

In an effort to pretty up my 77 KZ650B, I purchased a used valve cover off e-bay and sent it off to a Chromer. when it gets back and I remove my perfectly good non-leaking stock cover, and tips on the swap? Who's gasket is best ? Sealant , no sealant? Dry, lightly greased? Will I disrupt the end plugs when the cover comes off?
Thanks in advance for any info.

OEM gasket is my preference.

RTV on the curved portion of the half moons as needed.

A light coating of oil or grease on the side of the gasket that contacts the head is my preference as well.

I used oil this last time. Been using RTV on the plugs for years but sound up with weeping. This time I used Yamabond and they're dry as a bone.

With regards to YamaBond. I notice there is a #4 Semi Drying and a #5 Drying. Which is the preferred?

#4

www.amazon.com/Three-Bond-Liquid-Gasket-1184A100G/dp/B007TWXI1K




Or go down to your local autoparts store and get this...for $5. Be sure to clean the half moon and engine surface with acetone/brake cleaner/alcohol first, before bonding.

Use the Yamabond #4 or threebond, but only on the curved area of the end plugs and along the top of the end plugs slightly onto the aluminum. Don't fool with the end plugs if they are not leaking. If they are leaking, don't try to fix leaks via gasket sealer. Replace the plugs. Original Kawasaki gasket best bet. My opinion after a couple times replacing end plugs/gasket.

+1

My experience has been the same as RonKZ650's. Ed

I've never understood the whole putting oil or grease on a gasket ment to stop oil leaks deal.

A quality valve cover gasket like the OEM type will survive several removals for valve adjustment AS LONG AS IT DOESN'T STICK AND TEAR. That's the reason for the oil/grease on the head contact surface side of the gasket. It won't affect how the gasket seals and will assure it can be used more than once.

Just sayin.....

This is what I do to the Z1 Cam Covers. Your process would be the same. A bit of overkill maybe but it works Every time, No brown stains around sealing area. Re-torque required after the perimeter o-ring seats-in. Benefit of this? It provides a raised "pinch point" that the flat gasket cannot offer and it's a clean assembly. I also use the same technique for "most" of the carbs (VM, TK float bowls) I rebuild. Again, no brown staining around bowl to casting, Ever. Both applications the o-ring sticks to the applied surface so the item can be removed and remounted without a problem. Hope it helps