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Stripped cam bearing threads - shim under buckets
- Kray-Z
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- I need more power Scotty....
Typical of many KZ550-750 / late GPz and modified High Performance KZ engines using shim under bucket valve train, a friend has brought his GPz 1100 "bathtub" head to my shop because all of the cam cap bolt threads have stripped out. This seems common for these engines. Mostly it is attributed to using high lift cams, heavy valve springs, and numerous cycles of removing and installing the cams to adjust the valves. The M6 cam cap bolt threads in the aluminum head are obviously not up to the rigors of pulling down the camshafts and being torqued to 11 - 12 ft-lbs repeatedly. Even worse in his case, all the threads in the head have already had Heli- Coils and a few threaded repair inserts (Time-Serts) installed, and now those too are pulling out. So as it stands, his otherwise usable cylinder head would be destined for the scrap pile.....
The goal is to save the head by repairing the damaged threads using some home-made parts, and to re-design the cam cap fastening system to prevent further problems from occurring, on this heavily modified performance engine. We do use machine tools, but they are basic ones, so just about anyone with access to a machine shop, or any local machine shop should be able to do this.
Step one is already done - removing what was left of the old Heli-Coils without further damage to the head. Unfortunately, I didn't foresee to take any actual photos of this being done (last week), But next post I will include a description and photos of the tools and methods used.... I expect to post them 10 days from now..... thereabouts...,.
2-04 R1, 81 CSR1000, 81 LTD1000, 2-83 GPz1100, 3-79CBX, 81 CBX, 3-XS650, 84 Venture, +parts
Quote "speed costs money...how fast do you want to go?" (Which Z movie?)
Universal formula for how many motorcycles one should own = n + 1, where n is how many motorcycles you own right now....
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- Saablord
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This thread should be interesting though
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- DFIGPZ
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1984 750 Turbo
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- Kray-Z
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- I need more power Scotty....
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I haven't stripped any myself (yet) - but 11-12 ft-lbs would explain why many have come to me that way....
I'll post a photo of the underside of a H cover from a certain Minnesota racer's (drag race) KZ1100 engine w/ 0.480" cams that made about 2/3 of a 1/4 mile pass next post....
Also heard of a racer who has his 300 lbs. "assistant" press down on the cams while he is installing the bolts....
2-04 R1, 81 CSR1000, 81 LTD1000, 2-83 GPz1100, 3-79CBX, 81 CBX, 3-XS650, 84 Venture, +parts
Quote "speed costs money...how fast do you want to go?" (Which Z movie?)
Universal formula for how many motorcycles one should own = n + 1, where n is how many motorcycles you own right now....
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- Nessism
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I've got a photo somewhere. I'll dig it up if anyone cares.
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- Dr. Gamma
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I would never use a big C clamp or anything like that on my high dollar cams, or take the chance of scratching the Gun Kote finish on my cylinder head!!!
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1972 H2 750 Cafe Racer built in 1974.
1976 KH400 Production Road Racer.
1979 Kz1000 MK. II Old AMA/WERA Superbike.
1986 RG500G 2 stroke terror.
1986 GSXR750RG The one with the clutch that rattles!
Up in the hills near Prescott, Az.
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- loudhvx
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Also, the tach gear is a big source of problems, but it wouldn't be if everyone just removed the tach drive spindle like the manual says.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- 650ed
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The images below are from the KZ650 and KZ1000 Kawasaki Service Manuals. These manuals can be seen at:
www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...Service%20Manual.pdf
and
www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...Service%20Manual.pdf
It is my understanding that some manuals have the wrong torque specifications, so perhaps that is where you found the 11 – 12 ft lb spec. I highly recommend you use the torque spec shown below. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- TexasKZ
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Are you going to install a stud and nut system in the botched heads?
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- zukdave
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plus there's no reason to use a 3/8 drive ratchet on a bolt that small..
1980 KZ650 F1
ZX750A1 motor.
Wiseco 810cc kit.
Zukiworks racing ported head.
VM 29 smooth bore's.
Dyna 2000 Ign. w/Dyna mini coil's
APE cylinder stud's and nut's.
APE valve spring's.
APE Track King clutch.
V/H KZ1000 sidewinder.
3.5x18 laced to a KZ1000 disk hub.
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63" wheel base.
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- 650ed
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zukdave wrote: A ft./lb torque wrench is NOT going to read right at 10 ft/lb. I don't care what brand it is it's just to low of a setting
plus there's no reason to use a 3/8 drive ratchet on a bolt that small..
+1
Your best bet is to use a torque wrench calibrated in INCH pounds.
Keep in mind: "All mechanical torque wrenches are calibrated from 20% to 100% of full scale, therefore, they should never be used below or above those limits." That quote is from the CDI torque wrench website (see www.cditorque.com/education.html#Safety ). CDI is a Snap-on company that specializes in making torque wrenches. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- undiablo
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Nessism wrote: You can use vice grips to seat the cams into the head, against the valve spring pressure, before installing the caps. Doing this removes most of the stress of the threads associated with torquing down the caps.
I've got a photo somewhere. I'll dig it up if anyone cares.
If you find it, please post it
Kawasaki KZ 750/4 LTD 1981
Kawasaki KLR 650 2011
Argentina - Buenos Aires
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