TOPIC:

If anyone is interested (my local store Farm and Fleet) does have the Performance stem tester for 14.95 but not on the website. Hopefully its around at yours too.

I bought a compression tester with the valve in the tip. I haven't used it yet however. Actron CP7827 Compression Tester Kit
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006V2BRS/ref...01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I realized that I had not tried to restart the bike since it originally died on me. So after I adjusted the valves, changed the spark plugs, and checked the coils I tried to start it. It didn't do anything, it just turned over no sputtering or anything. I could smell gas after turning it over, and there was some compression so I think it would have at least sputtered. If I don't have spark I will back track that first.

Before I start tearing into the engine I want to make sure it is actually what is wrong. I know that it needs engine work eventually. It would smoke on startup after sitting overnight. It would make sense that the valve guide seals (or someone mentioned rings) are wearing out and need to be replaced. It also looks like it is starting to leak from the head gasket as well. Good thing the season is starting to come close to ending.

Thanks, Matt

Plugs fouled?
Steve

Nope. Still look brand new.

I think it is an electrical short that is the problem. I checked the fuses, which I didn't think to do originally and there was nothing wrong, however I moved some wires out of the way. Well after that it started right up and I took it for a ride down the street. It acted just the way I remember it to. Now I just need to see if I can recreate the no start problem.

Thanks for the help guys, Matt

I recall having an issue at least one time with the fuse box, where the wires connect inside the unit. The inside is accessible from the back where there is a thin plastic removable cover with tabs that hold it in place..
If you get a chance to look in there, check to see that the wires are tightly attached where they are riveted(?) to the fuse holder clips. If any can be moved or rotated, then you may be able to tighten them again using a center-punch and hammer in a jig, with the fuse box removed from the bike of course, though it may be easier to just replace the whole unit.

I will have to check that tomorrow. I just put like 2 miles on it and no problems. It also feels like its is running smoother now. Probably the valves or my imagination.

I moved the same section of harness like I did earlier and it didn't die. The engine was also warmed up so hopefully it is just a loose connection. I will need to refresh the top end eventually, but now hopefully I will get to enjoy the rest of the season.

Thanks, Matt

If the bike still has glass fuses, you may have a bad one. The link inside the tube can come loose from the end cap. It will look perfect, but will have no continuity or intermittent continuity.

I am just going to convert to blade fuses.