75 Z1 900 Valve Adjustment

Good day. Please help me determine the proper size shims for my valve adjustment. I have already cancelled two orders because I am incapable of doing magic maths.

All intake valves are 2.55mm
My readings are:
#1 - >.038
#2 - >.038
#3- .038
#4- .038
Spec is .05 - .10
I am thinking I should go down to 2.50 on all intake shims yes?

Exhaust #1 is .127 now with a 2.60 shim. To get within spec I am thinking I need a 2.65 shim which should give me .077 cleanace after yes?

Thanks for the help

Yes Conspiracy your math is okay

.038 are about 0,040 mm, here you have to remove 0,050 mm to get 0,090 mm clearance = 2,50 shim
I would let the exhaust #1 shim as it is, it is only 0,030 mm out of spec.

Ok thanks. I will order my shims. I am going to change the exhaust shim as well since there is some noise coming from the engine, want to see if it's the loose valve. I've already adjusted the cam chain tensioner

After you get this valve check done, I would check evilbay and get a couple lots of used shims. these are lots cheaper doing it this way than order what you need every time. Some of the guys might not agree but I ordered a HOT CAMS shim kit years ado. The shim kit comes with most every size you will need which the exception of the very fat or very thin ones. Mine came with a nice tray to store the shims in. I still got oem shims off of evilbay and added to the kit.

I bought a "lot" sale and got all the ones I didn't need. Yeah I have a full set now and it was cheaper. When I "tip" the valves I'll be set till the cows come home.:lol:
Steve

Will think about ebay if I end up needing to change often.

So I am going to finish the replacement tomorrow but have a question/concern: in a few videos I've watched it says not to rotate the camshaft with the shim out, well that happened on my intake #1. The shim was loose and I wasn't aware, I turned the crank and the shim popped out and the lobe was "stuck" pointing down into the bucket. I tried to turn the cam lobe either direction but the lip of the bucket prevented the cam from clearing either side. I ended up using the angles pry tool that came with my shim tool kit to pry down the bucket while the cam lobe was pointed down enough to get the spacer tool in. I got the cam lobe free hopefully without damaging the surface.

My question is whether or not I made an engine fatal mistake and screwed the timing or if you think I'll be ok starting the engine after I shamge out the new shim. ?

So the bike is back together and running. One of the intake shims was 2.6 so now I have .072 on three intake valves and .102 on one, which is just barely in spec.

Should I adjust my air/fuel screws any now that I've adjusted valves?

With the cam chain still in place and tensioned, the actual timing couldn't have jumped. It should be ok, as long as you didn't put a bad scratch in the lobe. As far as needing to change often, that shouldn't be the case, once an engine has some miles on it, I have never observed very drastic changes in clearance. Often times, you'll take it apart at the specified interval, only to find you don't need to do anything because it didn't change much, if at all. It certainly wouldn't be a bad idea to set the mixtures, as well as sync the carbs, it never is! Especially if YOU have never done it to the bike yourself. You never know when it was done last, maybe never?!

With the valves adjusted the carbs can be sync'd. If you don't have a set of vac gauges yet, may I recommend a Morgan Carb Tune. These are about a hundred bucks and come from England. The Morgan does use any equids in the gauge. Setting the air screw one must be careful not to go too lean. The air screw affects fuel mixture through out the entire range. If you are lean at the bottom you probably will be lean at the top.

Again the Morgan Carb Tune is the cats meow and doing a search should get you the info needed to order one. The Morgan Carb tune is relatively compact, comes in a nice case and has an slick way of hanging it from the handle bars.

Is the Morgan essentially the same as the motion pro sync gauge? It was previously synced but the valves were out of spec when it was done.

Also, I've now got white smoke coming from the exhaust. Loosening up the clearance on the intake could let more air in, thus lean?

a Valve check isn't going to help with the smoke. And your Motion pro will work but it's not in the same class as the Morgan.

It's definitely in your best interest to redo the synchronization, seeing as how valve clearance has changed and will therefore create different levels of vacuum than it was previously. I am going to definitely second the recommendation of the Morgan tool, I've had one for years, and it's one of my favorite motorcycle specific tools. It uses solid bars (of some sort of metal) rather than fluid, which I have found preferable, personally. Never cared for mercury / fluid gauges, personally.