Shims valves 750CC

The L1 wasn't sold in the USA, but from a google search the L1 engine & engine covers appear to be the same as the 750E.
If the crankcase is black, it could be from a 750-E2 or L1, so the local workshop may be correct.

Your engine crankcase appears to be unpainted aluminum, so it could be from a 750-H2 Ltd,
and someone may have painted the cylinder block & cylinder head black.

Using cyclechaos.com, the engine number is from an 81 750 & they are all probably identical, except for the black paint.

martin_csr wrote: The L1 wasn't sold in the USA, but from a google search the L1 engine & engine covers appear to be the same as the 750E.
If the crankcase is black, it could be from a 750-E2 or L1, so the local workshop may be correct.

Your engine crankcase appears to be unpainted aluminum, so it could be from a 750-H2 Ltd,
and someone may have painted the cylinder block & cylinder head black.

Using cyclechaos.com, the engine number is from an 81 750 & they are all probably identical, except for the black paint.

Martin is correct and I'm wrong. The L1 came out in 1981. That engine is black though, not silver like the bike in question. The engine in this bike looks to be from the H model.

What year is your bike ? I'm going through the same issue with my 1981 KZ1000 J. Here are a couple of very important things to watch out for.
1) Be very careful when compressing your valve springs using a valve spring compressor. I put a very small gouge in the valve bucket bore on 2 valves. I didn't notice that the valves were hanging up until I was trying to start it. It turned over fine by hand and everything was free. Make sure the valve buckets move up and down and rotate freely Prior to reinstalling your cams. (I assume from your earlier posts that your shims are under the buckets).
2) IF a bucket gets hung up, PM me for the solution or post on here for info. I tried many methods before having to cut the top and pull out. Then a brake hone and parts are necessary.
3) Get some good feeler gauges if you don't have them already. Ignore the inch measurement. This metric measuring really caused me issues. I'm old lol.
4) There are some very great people on this site who are more than happy to send you spare parts if you're patient and can wait for the mail lol. This site is the best for help and parts.
5) Never mind the nm lol. You can convert to in/lbs or ft/lbs and be fine for torques.
NESSISM: Thanks for the valve cover info. I didn't realize the cover played a part in the can tension. Not here yet but will be soon. Another question I have is this. My manual says when I place the exhaust cam with the EX mark facing the front of the head and the 1/4 T is in place that I should measure 1 & 2 because they will both be on the compression stroke ????
Question is: I thought 1 & 4 were on the compression stroke ???
Question 2 is: Will I get an inaccurate gap/lash measurement if I place the cam lobe facing 180 out or away from the valve ? Any cylinder, it doesn't matter just that the cam lobe is 180 away from the valve bucket. Will that give me the LASH or GAP measurement I want ??? I have the FSM but the 1 & 2 being on the compression stroke at the same time from the FSM directions threw me for a loop.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom. Be well, Jon

I understand so my engine is either 750-H1 Ltd 81 or 750-H2 Ltd 81?

gordone wrote: I understand so my engine is either 750-H1 Ltd 81 or 750-H2 Ltd 81?

I believe this is correct. It was the H model bikes that received the unpainted engines. H1 as 1980 and H2 was 1981.

aquaholic wrote: Another question I have is this. My manual says when I place the exhaust cam with the EX mark facing the front of the head and the 1/4 T is in place that I should measure 1 & 2 because they will both be on the compression stroke ????
Question is: I thought 1 & 4 were on the compression stroke ???
Question 2 is: Will I get an inaccurate gap/lash measurement if I place the cam lobe facing 180 out or away from the valve ? Any cylinder, it doesn't matter just that the cam lobe is 180 away from the valve bucket. Will that give me the LASH or GAP measurement I want ??? I have the FSM but the 1 & 2 being on the compression stroke at the same time from the FSM directions threw me for a loop.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom. Be well, Jon

Jon,
There is some controversy on the best way to position the cams before checking the valve lash. I'm of the belief that the factory method is best BECAUSE you wind up with two adjacent valves on the cam base circle at the same time, and then you check the valves in pairs. This way is best because IF the adjacent valve is depressed then that will push up on the cam and skew it within the journal clearance. If the adjacent valve is pushing up you can see .05mm" variation in your measurements compared to both valves being on the base circle.