Shims valves 750CC

Hi,

It is looking like I need to reshims the valves on my 750CC (KZ750 0EE025011).
I have some pratical questions:

1. Can these guide be used?
www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?p=352935

2. Do I need a newton meter torque wrench I mount the cam back?

3. I assume I need to remove the cam and the cops to see what shims it`s installed today,
before I can order shims... ?? or are they selling shims set or something, with all common sizes?

4. Guide for setting tension on the chain tensioner ? who much force shall I use ?

more to remember?

You should get a manual. Shim changes are detailed in the manual.

The important thing is to not install the valve cover with the camchain tensioned. That can do damage to the valve train.

The shims can be bought individually, or in a kit, but the kit will have a lot of sizes you don't need and only a few that you do need. The kit is a good starting point if you plan on keeping the bike a long time. But just to get running, it's more cost effective to buy individual shims. The downside is that you will have to open the motor to see what sizes you have, then wait until you get the right ones before you can finish the job. So you will want to do the work in a place where you can leave the bike inoperable and protected for some time.

1. The problem is that my engine has been replaced from 650 to 750, so I don`t have manual..
750CC (KZ750 0EE025011), can I figure out by looking at the engine number what model I have and then google for the manual...?
I have tried... must use some more time here.

2. Upps... on Friday I took of the valve cover for mesaure the valve clearance, but I was not touching the camchain tensioner...
hope nothing is damage? how can the cover damage anything? only laying on top?... what do now.. ?

3. I will search for a kit then... before I start working again.

4. Is it a must with the service manual?
What do I need from it ? valve clearance mm, and nm the bolts shall have ?

According to Kawasaki, there is a specific order and position to measure the shims. The manual also has a chart to easily figure out what shim to order.

The valve cover pushes down on the camchain as part of the guide system. When you take the cover off, if the tensioner takes up the slack, then you put the cover back on, the chain will be too tight.

Find what model the engine came from and get that manual. It will describe how to release the camchain tension.

The KZ750 Turbo forum has a nice download link for the full KZ750 service manual.

You need to take off the 17mm nut on the cam chain tensioner and remove the spring and pull back on the tensioner wedge before putting the valve cover on. Your chain is now overly tightened since you did not do that.

The best way to position the cams for valve adjustment is detailed in the service manual. This procedure positions the cams so that two adjacent valve are both on the cam base circle at the same time, then both valves are checked at the same time.

This is a simplified method that should help you...

1) Point exhaust lobe 1E forward and parallel to the valve cover surface and then adjust 1E and 2E.

2) Point exhaust lobe 4E forward and parallel with the gasket surface and adjust 3E and 4E.

3) Point intake lobe 1i 90*, pointing straight away from the valve and adjust 1i and 2i

4) Point intake lobe 4i 90*, pointing away from the valve and adjust 3i and 4i

For the intakes you point the cam lobe for 1I away from the valve, perpendicular to the gasket surface, and adjust 1I and 2I. The point 4I away from the valve, perpendicular to the gasket surface, and adjust 4I and 3I.

By adjusting the valves in pairs the adjacent valve is on the base circle as well as the valve being adjusted. If you use the 180 degree method the adjacent valve will most likely be depressing the valve and skewing the cam in the journal clearance. This gives incorrect measurements - measurement will be larger than when using the Kawasaki method.

Today have I measured the shims, it went quite okay, it wasn't too hard

The only question is if my measurement are accurate enough, my calipers? are not of the best quality / pro one, but I think it`s good enough...

Method used:
Turn the crankshaft to line up the 1-4 T mark so that I could check the 1-3 inlet valves first. Then turn the crankshaft a full turn to line up the 1-4 T mark again to check the 2-4 inlet valves.

Next lining up the 2-3 T mark to check the 1-3 exhaust valves. Then turn the crankshaft a full turn to the 2-3 T mark again to check the 2-4 exhaust valves. and of course jot down the numbers.

Inlet valve clearance:
1 - 0,11
2 - 0,24-0,23
3 - 0,13
4 - 0,11

Exhaust valve clearance:
1 - 0,26
2 - 0,31
3 - 0,20
4 - 0,21

Inlet valve shims:
1 - 2,45
2 - 2,6
3 - 2,65
4 - 2,6

exhaust valve shims:
1 - 2,7
2 - 2,65
3 - 2,7 (just a little bit under)
4- 2,7 (just a little bit under)

Want to you think?

I took some pictures under the process:
temp.dynamitt.net/div/MC/shims_check/

The spec is .08 - .18 mm. You have a lot of valves above the limit that should be moved up in shim size. I'd move those .11 valves down one shim size too.

Why would so many of those be over 0.18 ?
Did the previous owner adjust them wrong? Or could that be from carbon buildup on the valves & valve seats? or???

I agree with martin, those clearance readings are odd.

I'm not directly familiar with the cam positioning method used, which actually seems to be based off the factory method, but one thing I do know is that if the adjacent valve to the one you are checking is pushing up on the cam then the clearance value will be greater than if two adjacent valves are both on the base circle at the same time. The cam positioning method I detailed puts two adjacent valves on the base circle concurrently, which is why I recommend that method. The KZ1000 FSM details this same basic method, but for some reason the 750 manual does not.

Thank you all for feedback.

When you use the feeling gauge, shall it slide in quite easy, just with careful force/push?
What I has doing is to use some force and pushing it in, can the valve itself has done down.. some???

so you think I shall try to use the other method and see what results I got, the method you are explaining above?
Where you divide into group 1-2 and 3-4 and 5-6 and 7-8.

So for 1 shall the lobe be straight forward and then will the lobe for 2 goes direct up (see attached picture) and then measure these two before I goes to 2-3...

I will try and do these the next days and then come back to you, I want to be finish with the valves soon so I can come further

For mention it, when I tried todo the measurement some weeks ago, I was not focusing on the timing on the shaft 1-4 T etc, I was only focusing on the lobe was not pushing down the specific valve I was measuring and then I got these results, maybe these give some more information?

Valve 1 = 0,25 mm
Valve 2 = 0,30 mm
Valve 3 = 0,15 mm
Valve 4 = 0,15 mm
Valve 5 = Was not able to get 0,15mm in.
Valve 6 = 0,20 mm
Valve 7 = Was not able to get 0,15mm in.
valve 8 = 0,10 mm

There are noway that some tuning of the top done by previous owner have changes what clearness I shall have?
You shall be within the tolerance regardless?

Good Sunday

Today have I done some new measurements, where I have used your method Nessism where I have taken pairs two and two.
I also have been careful when I have used the feeling gauge and not force it in.

I also observed that the contact fleet between the valve "house" and the cam is 100% in line some of the cam is closer den then the rest. I don`t know know If these has something to-do with engine has not been run or turned allot after I had the cams of for measuring the shims, I have put correct nm on the bolts for the cams. So I was carefully with the feeling hauge checking is was able to move it side to side under the whole cam.

So here is the results I got:

Exhaust:
1 - 0,21mm (0,20 was going in easy and 0,22 was not, so a place in between these two).
2 - same as valve 1.
3 - 0,14mm (0,13 was going in easy and 0,15 was not, so a place in between these two).
4 - 0,16mm (0,15 was going in easy and 0,17 was not, so a place in between these two).

Inlet:
1 - 0,11mm (0,10 was going in easy and 0,12 was not, so a place in between these two).
2 - 0,21mm (0,20 was going in easy and 0,21 was not, so a place in between these two).
3 - 0,065mm (0,05 was going in easy and 0,08 was not, so a place in between these two).
4 - 0,05mm was not going in, thinness I have.

I`m feeling these number was more correct and logical?

Are you all agree with my calculation for new shims?

Thank you