Probably a really stupid question

  • stokes
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Re: Probably a really stupid question

14 Dec 2016 09:13
#750179
I've used the zip tie method posted by Ness,easy as could be.
1980 KZ1000B Ltd

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  • khungerf
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Re: Probably a really stupid question

14 Dec 2016 11:18
#750181
Is this special shim reoval tool still available?
-Lee
'84 GPZ550

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Re: Probably a really stupid question

14 Dec 2016 12:21
#750184
khungerf wrote: Is this special shim reoval tool still available?
Yes,I think Z1 parts or Z1 enterprises has it.
1980 KZ1000B Ltd

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  • TexasKZ
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Re: Probably a really stupid question

14 Dec 2016 16:20
#750197
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD slowly moving toward resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough

www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/620336...amateur-build-thread

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  • kaw-a-holic
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Re: Probably a really stupid question

14 Dec 2016 19:36 - 14 Dec 2016 19:36
#750214
Nessism wrote: You have a bunch of valves at the minimum clearance spec. Personally, I'd move them up to the middle-upper end of the spec range to buy you some time before you have to go back inside the engine.

If you are anxious to get the job done wire ties can be used instead of the shim tool. Read about it here if interested... members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/i...lve_tool_zip_tie.pdf

I have two different tools and the ziptie is by far my favorite method.
Jon
1977 KZ1000a1
Mesa, AZ
Phoenix Fighter Project
Last edit: 14 Dec 2016 19:36 by kaw-a-holic.

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  • missionkz
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Re: Probably a really stupid question

14 Dec 2016 22:26 - 14 Dec 2016 22:27
#750222
If those are the measurements with a semi hot engine, I would not change anything except the
#2 exhaust shim to the very next smaller shim number.
In other words, if it is a #280, I'd use a #275.
Then ride the bike for a couple thousand miles and check them again.
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado
Last edit: 14 Dec 2016 22:27 by missionkz.

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  • Bama704
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Re: Probably a really stupid question

15 Dec 2016 07:40
#750237
Not super anxious to get these changed out, so I ordered the tool and will see how that goes.
The bike was parked for a week in my garage before I took the valve cover off, so no, it wasn't a warm engine...
1977 KZ900
Carbs are late model 1975 28mm

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Re: Probably a really stupid question

15 Dec 2016 11:08 - 15 Dec 2016 11:10
#750240
Bama704 wrote: Not super anxious to get these changed out, so I ordered the tool and will see how that goes.
The bike was parked for a week in my garage before I took the valve cover off, so no, it wasn't a warm engine...
OK The service manual states to check cold but I check mine with the engine pretty warm.
That could imply that when hot , the engineers expected that gap to close up a bit.
However, I still try to get right in the middle of that .002"-.004" when warm and for sure, favor the fatter setting for the exhaust side.
I'd rather have them a very little bit loose and (maybe a bit more noise) but it is not really that noticeable.
If that exhaust valve is set too tight and the cam takes pressure off the valve's seat (the valve doesn't clamp down tight into the valve seat), it will over heat and damage the seat or the valve.
Then you have some big $$ to spend on something that was stupid simple to avoid.
But I have had a few running at .002" for many months and when checking again warm near the end of the season,, they were still around + .002".
I don't know what the general consensus is here about checking clearances hot or cold... but I've been doing it this way since 1974-1975 and have never burned a valve.... bent them being stupid though! LOL
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado
Last edit: 15 Dec 2016 11:10 by missionkz.

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Re: Probably a really stupid question

19 Dec 2016 11:08 - 19 Dec 2016 14:27
#750428
I ended up getting the stupid motion pro tool and it was awful and I could only get one shim out. So I used the zip tie method which worked great. Here are my measurements

Clearance :
Intake / Exhaust
1 - .002 (.05mm) / .004 (.1mm)
2 - .003 (.762mm) / <.0015 (.0381mm)
3 - .002 (.05mm) / .003 (.0762mm)
4 - .0025 (.0635mm) / .003 .0762mm)

Shim Size :

Intake / Exhaust
1 - 250 / 280
2 - 250 / 285
3 - 280 / 275
4 - 275 / 270

Which ones would you change out? Should I try and get the clearances set to .1mm on the intake and .15mm on the exhaust side?
1977 KZ900
Carbs are late model 1975 28mm
Last edit: 19 Dec 2016 14:27 by Bama704.

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  • missionkz
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Re: Probably a really stupid question

19 Dec 2016 11:45
#750433
Bama704 wrote: I ended up getting the stupid motion pro tool and it was awful and I could only get one shim out. So I used the zip tie method which worked great. Here are my measurements

Clearance :
Intake / Exhaust
1 - .002 (.05mm) / .004 (.1mm)
2 - .003 (.762mm) / <.0015 (.0381mm)
3 - .002 (.05mm) / .003 (.0762mm)
4 - .0025 (.0635mm) / .003 .0762mm)

Shim Size :

Intake / Exhaust
1 - 250 / 280
2 - 250 / 258
3 - 280 / 275
4 - 275 / 270

Which ones would you change out? Should I try and get the clearances set to .1mm on the intake and .15mm on the exhaust side?
I don't think there is any such thing as a 258.... probably a 250.
So if yes, a 250, I'd buy a 245 for #2 exhaust.
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado

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Re: Probably a really stupid question

19 Dec 2016 14:28
#750446
I fixed my edit, the 258 is supposed to read 285
1977 KZ900
Carbs are late model 1975 28mm

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  • KZB2 650
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Re: Probably a really stupid question

19 Dec 2016 15:17
#750454
Like Nessium said I'd think about opening them all up a shim except for maybe the #2 intake and #1 exhaust .......you could swap a few around and probably only have to buy a few. Could buy you quite a while before doing it again. Maybe a hair towards the loose end but a fair amount of guys have told me they run the "small blocks anyway" up towards the high end of (.003 to .007). I would worry about the .002 readings once they wear a thou your cutting it pretty damn close but see what a few others think.
1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.

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