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Needed: Engine rebuild warning, tips, and tricks
- SmokyOwl
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The mechanic told me it's a real pain to hold the camchain (I think he said camchain?) still while doing something else, man my memory is going . Are there any other headaches or potential issues in store for him I should warn him about? Last thing I want is for him to have to tear the engine apart again because of a mistake.
SO if you've ever done a rebuild and at the end said "oh NO! I forgot...." or if you thought of something thoughtful in your journey, let us know.
1982 Kawasaki KZ1100 A2, Shaft
Never trade the thrill of living for the safety of existance.
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- Nessism
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- SWest
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Steve
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- SmokyOwl
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Nessism wrote: Wish I was in your area because I'd be happy to take your $2k for a simple refreshing. How many miles on the engine? Unless it's north of 70k or there has been a bunch of damage from the busted guide it shouldn't cost you more than $500.
Well they guy is charging like $80 an hour, maybe $100. Engine's got like 27k on it.
1982 Kawasaki KZ1100 A2, Shaft
Never trade the thrill of living for the safety of existance.
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- Bozo
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SmokyOwl wrote:
Nessism wrote: Wish I was in your area because I'd be happy to take your $2k for a simple refreshing. How many miles on the engine? Unless it's north of 70k or there has been a bunch of damage from the busted guide it shouldn't cost you more than $500.
Well they guy is charging like $80 an hour, maybe $100. Engine's got like 27k on it.
Camchain, topend rebuild at 27K? sounds like a simple valve guide seal change out and cleaning/ lapping the valves, as well as fixing the guide (assuming no valves were bent when the chain went slack)
First Permanent ride the Z1R since Dec1977 (220,000km) as of June 2015
Second permanent bike 1989 FJ1200 dyno'd 140RWH, great bike.
Third ride is now the Frankenstein 1981 GPZ1100B1, 1983 fully recon motor fitted LOVE THIS BIKE
Forth my work bike FJ1200 1989 (same type as FJ above)
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- SWest
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SmokyOwl wrote:
Nessism wrote: Wish I was in your area because I'd be happy to take your $2k for a simple refreshing. How many miles on the engine? Unless it's north of 70k or there has been a bunch of damage from the busted guide it shouldn't cost you more than $500.
Well they guy is charging like $80 an hour, maybe $100. Engine's got like 27k on it.
Get a second opinion.
Steve
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- SmokyOwl
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Top end rebuilds are typically $2k for these bikes at a shop aren't they? I mean I could see it being $500 if I did the job myself.
1982 Kawasaki KZ1100 A2, Shaft
Never trade the thrill of living for the safety of existance.
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- mopguy
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I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.
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- Dr. Gamma
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1972 H2 750 Cafe Racer built in 1974.
1976 KH400 Production Road Racer.
1979 Kz1000 MK. II Old AMA/WERA Superbike.
1986 RG500G 2 stroke terror.
1986 GSXR750RG The one with the clutch that rattles!
Up in the hills near Prescott, Az.
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- daveo
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Don't blindly trust anyone to touch your engine, let alone put a bolt in it. Some mechanics think it is ordinary procedure to install helicoils after treating the aluminum like it is steel or cast iron.
Get the guy to warranty his work in-writing, and have him describe everything he plans to do ahead of time with you.
I made the mistake of trusting the first guy someone recommended to do the top end on my engine. He did it wrong, alright.
For some reason he went conveniently out of business soon after completing my project. The guy had installed new rings in the old out-of-round cylinders which led to considerable oil consumption and several broken rings, which an experienced race-engine builder found in there later that year. Boy was I a dumb shit, but then again I had no practical knowledge about the mechanics...I just wanted to ride. :evil:
That was before I decided to put my limited and out-dated mechanical skill to work, and discovered how simple the J-motors are.
Now I have the machining work done professionally, and do the assembly work myself as much as possible. You might be surprised how much $$$ you can save by doing the assembly yourself, and gaining insight into the motional-workings of these engines at the same time.
I'm glad I took good-care of that old torque wrench I bought brand-new in the early seventies.
1982 KZ1100-A2
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- SmokyOwl
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daveo wrote: That is a whole lot of $$$ :ohmy:
Don't blindly trust anyone to touch your engine, let alone put a bolt in it. Some mechanics think it is ordinary procedure to install helicoils after treating the aluminum like it is steel or cast iron.
Get the guy to warranty his work in-writing, and have him describe everything he plans to do ahead of time with you.
I made the mistake of trusting the first guy someone recommended to do the top end on my engine. He did it wrong, alright.
For some reason he went conveniently out of business soon after completing my project. The guy had installed new rings in the old out-of-round cylinders which led to considerable oil consumption and several broken rings, which an experienced race-engine builder found in there later that year. Boy was I a dumb shit, but then again I had no practical knowledge about the mechanics...I just wanted to ride. :evil:
That was before I decided to put my limited and out-dated mechanical skill to work, and discovered how simple the J-motors are.
Now I have the machining work done professionally, and do the assembly work myself as much as possible. You might be surprised how much $$$ you can save by doing the assembly yourself, and gaining insight into the motional-workings of these engines at the same time.
I'm glad I took good-care of that old torque wrench I bought brand-new in the early seventies.
The guy's procedure for doing these larger jobs is to give updated charges and estimates as the job is being completed, so the job can stop at anytime I'm not comfortable paying any more. He said head jobs usually $1k to 1.2k, but now with all the little additions I want, i.e. valve job, petcock work, maybe a carburetor rebuild/cleaning, I'm estimating it being about $1.5k to $2k.
So you're saying I should have all the pistons replaced as well as the rings?
I HATE working on anything in the cold. Everything sucks, I just start getting really angry and screw up the job, then start throwing things. I was told by a guy at work too (He owned a bike shop and his bikes were publicized in on front-page magazines), if you're not REALLY comfortable with engines, and you don't really know what you're doing, don't do a top-end rebuild and you'll just screw it up. So I'm letting it go to a shop.
1982 Kawasaki KZ1100 A2, Shaft
Never trade the thrill of living for the safety of existance.
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- daveo
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SmokyOwl wrote:
So you're saying I should have all the pistons replaced as well as the rings?
Depending on the condition of the bores, and the pistons (lands, etc.)
If it wasn't for ebay, my bike would have gone away a long time ago. I think I'm on my third set of cylinders with what is in there now.
Being budget minded with my bike, I preferred to keep it stock with everything below the head gaskets. I get plenty of excitement riding with a little less power and some green left in my pocket.
Decent cylinder blocks can be had for under $200, which may only need a good honing before use. That was the case in 2015 for me. In fact, my old cylinder was adequate for reuse, and was honed by my engine guy for $20 to keep around for next time, if ever there is one. :whistle:
Even the pistons were good...but I had a NOS STD set (and rings) sitting around which I chose to use beneath a stock 84 bathtub head with GPz cams. IMO the best thing I've done with that bike to date.
My best advice would be to take your time, and save as much $$$ as you can, until you can proceed with 100% confidence in your own decision.
1982 KZ1100-A2
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