Valve Clearance 78 KZ1000 B2

I added this question to the end of my jetting post and it didn't get any replies so I decided to start a new post on the specific topic.......

I have a question on when in the cam rotation is the valve clearance checked. The FSM says to align the line on the cam gear parallel to valve cover surface and depending on degrees of rotation you can check #1 and #3 or #2 and #4. I noticed only one of the lobe #1 is orientated as shown in the FSM (lobe away from center of engine and about 9:00 O'clock) looking form right side of the engine. The other lobe #3 is at about 2:00 O'clock with the lobe more toward the center of the engine. Is this the proper degree in rotation to check clearance on #3, in this position I would assume it is entering the ram up to open the valve. I found out if I rotated the engine again and aligned the exhaust cam marks parallel to the valve cover surface then #3 is in the position #1 was ( lobe away from engine center and about 9;00 O'clock)

If this description has confused all I can take photos to help show what i'm trying to describe.

This is for my 1978 KZ1000 LTD

The factory cam positioning method puts two adjacent valves on the base circle at the same time. This is the best way to position the cams because the adjacent cam lobe to the one you are checking will not be pressing into the valve spring and pushing back on the cam, skewing it in the camshaft journal clearance. You just need to realize that within 360 degrees of camshaft rotation about 2/3's of that is on the base circle.

1st: position 1 exhaust lobe pointing forward, then adjust 1 & 2 exhaust valves
2nd: position 4 exhaust lobe pointing forward, then adjust 3 & 4 exhaust valves

3rd: position 1 intake lobe pointing straight up, then adjust 1 & 2 intake valves
4th: position 4 intake lobe pointing straight up, then adjust 3 & 4 intake valves

Nessism wrote:
1st: position 1 exhaust lobe pointing forward, then adjust 1 & 2 exhaust valves
2nd: position 4 exhaust lobe pointing forward, then adjust 3 & 4 exhaust valves

3rd: position 1 intake lobe pointing straight up, then adjust 1 & 2 intake valves
4th: position 4 intake lobe pointing straight up, then adjust 3 & 4 intake valves

Are you saying to not use the lines on the cam gears, but to rotate engine to get the alignment you mention above?

Mikaw wrote:

Nessism wrote:
1st: position 1 exhaust lobe pointing forward, then adjust 1 & 2 exhaust valves
2nd: position 4 exhaust lobe pointing forward, then adjust 3 & 4 exhaust valves

3rd: position 1 intake lobe pointing straight up, then adjust 1 & 2 intake valves
4th: position 4 intake lobe pointing straight up, then adjust 3 & 4 intake valves

Are you saying to not use the lines on the cam gears, but to rotate engine to get the alignment you mention above?

The lines on the cam gears coincide with what I'm suggesting but it's easier to just watch the lobes in my opinion.

Nessism wrote:

Mikaw wrote:

Nessism wrote:
1st: position 1 exhaust lobe pointing forward, then adjust 1 & 2 exhaust valves
2nd: position 4 exhaust lobe pointing forward, then adjust 3 & 4 exhaust valves

3rd: position 1 intake lobe pointing straight up, then adjust 1 & 2 intake valves
4th: position 4 intake lobe pointing straight up, then adjust 3 & 4 intake valves

Are you saying to not use the lines on the cam gears, but to rotate engine to get the alignment you mention above?

The lines on the cam gears coincide with what I'm suggesting but it's easier to just watch the lobes in my opinion.

Thank you, Understood. This is my first attempt on shimming valve lash. I have reached out to a well know expert and he has suggested to set the intake at .002 to .004 and exhaust to .003 to .005 theses are thousandths SAE. Do you agree? I'm not looking to tweak every last drop of HP out of the engine but I am looking for a dependable daily driver that would also wake up and run when asked to.

The manual I have states .05 - .10 mm

I adjust my valves at 9:00 and 3:00 and have been doing this for 40 years. .002-.004 all valves. .005 is OK.
Steve

Nessism bring up a good point... what about upward pressure from the valve spring on the cam journal. what is the cam bearing clearance and how much will it effect the valve lash. maybe over thinking this

There are many discussions on this. The main thing is to have clearance.
Steve

Well finally was able to get the clearance measured correctly and ordered the shims. I have changed them out and here are the results. Keep in mind that a well know Z1/KZ man suggested these settings after years of trial and error. He suggested to set the intake to .002 to .004 and the exhaust to .003 to .005 in thousandths. He said in his experience is is the best settings. He did put it like this no .002 on exhaust and no .005 on the intake. So my results are below


cyclinder intake shim clearance, exhaust shim Clearance
#1 -- I -230 .003-- E-260 .005
#2-- I-235A .003 -- E-265 .004
#3-- I-225 .002 -- E-280 .004
#4-- I- 220 .003 -- E-275 .0045

Im very pleased with the results but id like it to be better. As i understand the "A" on a shim means its a tad thicker and i have tried a 220 shim in #3 intake because at .002 its a little tight and it jumps to .0045. So id like to ask if anyone would have and be willing to part with the following size shims

220A for #3 intake
260A for #1 exhaust
275A for #4 exhaust

I think you can leave everything alone except I'd try that 220A on 3I.

Good job.

Nessism wrote: I think you can leave everything alone except I'd try that 220A on 3I.

Good job.

Thanks, I want exposure to try to find these shims. Do you suggest I switch this to the "wanted' category?