KZ900 A4 FRUSTRATED- Can't get valve timing right

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02 Nov 2016 14:33 #746988 by Katums
Doug,

Thanks for the suggestions and I will do all of those inspections and maintenance before I ride. I failed to check the valve clearances and that was a big mistake on my part.

Here are is a picture.

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1976 KZ900 A4
2003 Porsche Boxster S
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02 Nov 2016 14:49 #746989 by Katums
Doug,

Here is a photo of the day I got the bike, I went to a garage sale and ask the guy tending the sale if he had any machines. He said yes, but they're not pretty. I got the KZ900, the Honda 350 in the background, the Sears track snow blower, and a 15HP Kohler engine all for $85.00. The 1976 KZ has a clear title, the honda didn't and I sold it quickly as salvage.

Here is the pic of the day I got the stuff.

I hope this background story does not violate the rules of the site. I appreciate all the knowledge out ther.

Ed (Katums)

1976 KZ900 A4
2003 Porsche Boxster S

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  • SWest
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  • 10 22 2014
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02 Nov 2016 15:57 #746996 by SWest
I adjust the valves facing away from each other. Not only is it easier but you will get more accurate results. Some will argue with that and you know what they say about opinions. :evil: :woohoo:
Steve
The following user(s) said Thank You: Katums

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02 Nov 2016 18:47 #747022 by Zedone
Wow, that's a great deal! The bike looks like its in very nice shape also... If you are running a 4 into 1 pipe use Suzuki GS 750/1000 exhaust gaskets (1980-82) with a smear of copper gasket sealant, they fit better and are @ 4.5 mm thick and seal better. Don't use 1989-95? Gsxr gaskets as they are to large in dia. I would get some billet cam end plugs for the head and use like a Mobile 1 crankcase/gasket sealant on them and ditch the rubber seal that comes with them, the stock rubber Kawasaki cam end plugs suck. Another thing that comes to mind is, be careful when reassembling the exhaust cam and make sure the tach drive gear is NOT in the head... make sure to install it after the exhaust cam is installed.

Doug

1977 KZ1000A1
1977 KZ1000A1 (Superbike Project)
1969 Chevrolet C/10 Short Fleet

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  • Bozo
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03 Nov 2016 02:54 #747055 by Bozo

swest wrote: Have you checked your valve clearances? If the cams are that far out you could have bent a valve or two. (I doubt it) When you turn the crank past the 2/3 T mark and go back to 1/4 the timing will show 180* out from the cylinder you just set the timing for. You will go one more full revolution and be back where you started. All should be the same. Ignore the lines on the cam sprockets. I asked it it was running before. No answer. If this is a fresh build, it's possible the crank is a 16 tooth not a 15. Pics always helps when asking for advice. I ask questions for a reason, that was one of them.
Steve


Steve, my first thought (as was yours) was the crankshaft sprocket, actually as far as I can see the crankshaft sprocket makes more sense

First Permanent ride the Z1R since Dec1977 (220,000km) as of June 2015
Second permanent bike 1989 FJ1200 dyno'd 140RWH, great bike.
Third ride is now the Frankenstein 1981 GPZ1100B1, 1983 fully recon motor fitted LOVE THIS BIKE
Forth my work bike FJ1200 1989 (same type as FJ above)

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  • SWest
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  • 10 22 2014
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03 Nov 2016 06:10 #747079 by SWest

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