KZ900 A4 FRUSTRATED- Can't get valve timing right

They should be pointing away from each other. That's when you adjust the valves.
Steve

We've never paid any attention to the 28th tooth mark on the cam chain itself after the initial install. We only use it for the initial cam timing setup. As long as the T mark and cam sprocket timing alignment marks agree every two crank revs all should be good. Turn by hand ten or so revs to confirm no valve interference.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Now I'm really confused. I apologize, but I think I read that the lobes on #4 should be pointing to each other and those on #1 opposed when at TDC.

I'll get some pictures to you as soon as I totally redo the cams again and check everything out.

This is my 7th redo...........I've never gotten stuck like this with another machine.

Ya know, I wondered about that. In fact, I have had correct 28 pin alignment after the first full rotation to TDC. If you are correct, and I sure hope you are, I've had the thing timed a few times.

I'm going now to redo everything and will report back.

Thank you for your kind response.

Can anyone else confirm that pin 28 will stay on the mark for only the first 2 revolutions?

This makes sense to me, given my 8 do-overs.

Thanks to all for the valued input!

Ed

The 30 teeth of the cam sprocket doesn't divided equally by the 122 links of the cam chain - simple.
The pin you have marked as 28 won't stay in the same spot on each rotation and will drift further and further off it's initial location each time you bring the timing marks back to TDC.
At least it's given you the opportunity to perfect the timing procedure :laugh:

Exactly, I have it down now for sure. And. The explanation makes sense. Logic had me leaning toward that explanation, but I wasn't confident and didn't want to lunch the valves.

Next on my agenda are the carbs. I want to open them up and clean them.

This poor machine had a very tough life until I hauled it out from under the dudes deck where it sat for 15 years. Its solid and well designed and built. It will live to ride again!

Thanks for the help, it is very much appreciated.

Ed

Adjust the valves before going to the carbs.
Steve

zed1015 wrote: The 30 teeth of the cam sprocket doesn't divided equally by the 122 links of the cam chain - simple.
The pin you have marked as 28 won't stay in the same spot on each rotation and will drift further and further off it's initial location each time you bring the timing marks back to TDC.

That's a good explanation. Well said.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

zed1015 wrote: The 30 teeth of the cam sprocket doesn't divided equally by the 122 links of the cam chain - simple.
The pin you have marked as 28 won't stay in the same spot on each rotation and will drift further and further off it's initial location each time you bring the timing marks back to TDC.
At least it's given you the opportunity to perfect the timing procedure :laugh:

Right! Marks on the chain are meaning less once you count over 28, hook it into the gullet. And clamp the cam down. Once you rotate the crank 360-720 degrees there will still be 28 pins apart from the > mark on the exhaust to intake, but it will be a different 28 pins on the chain.

Yes, valves adjusted before carbs. I'm hoping I won't need to order shims, but I'm guessing I will. Valves today.

Is it common to need different sized (thickness) shims for each valve?

Would you recommend renewing carb kits or should cleaning be sufficient? I took off the top and bottom caps just to inspect and they are crusty with white residue.

Yep, now I know.

One would think that either the OEM shop manual or Clymer would have noted that the 28 pin mark is good only for the initial rotations.

Thanks everybody!

Ed