Engine Spec and Cam Timing

My Z1000J (KZ in USA) looks like the engine may be ZX spec, although it has a J engine number
See pictures below and I think the shims are under the buckets, also is the cam timing out, the cam picture were taken with the T1.4 mark lined up.

Pics aren't very clear but it doesn't look off.
Exhaust cam marks should line up with the cover off but Inlet cam timing will only be visually correct with the cam cover on .
Check the pin count as per manual with the motor at TDC .
Make sure you release the tensioner first before refitting cam cover.
Shim under is a simple conversion with GPZ or Z650 parts so could be done for use with higher lift cams or could be a complete Unitrack head fitted.

Thanks, I've counted the pins and the timing is correct.
Why does the tensioner need releasing before putting the cover on, won't the cover push down on the chain and sort the tension out?

Julian_Boolean wrote: Thanks, I've counted the pins and the timing is correct.
Why does the tensioner need releasing before putting the cover on, won't the cover push down on the chain and sort the tension out?

There is a rub block in the valve cover which depressed the chain. With the cover off the tensioner will spring out to take up the slack created when the cover was removed. The tensioner is designed to spring out and not go back in once it does. All you have to do is remove the tensioner spring cap and slightly pull back on the wedge before installing the cover, and then put the spring cap back on once the top end is buttoned up.

Thanks for that, makes a lot of sense.

Took the carbs and rubbers off this morning, inlet tracts are very smooth and look like they've been gas flowed.
They've got A stamped into the bottom of them.

Julian_Boolean wrote: Thanks, I've counted the pins and the timing is correct.
Why does the tensioner need releasing before putting the cover on, won't the cover push down on the chain and sort the tension out?

The tensioner only moves one way once assembled on the engine.
Just fitting the cam cover without releasing the tension will put massive loads on the cam chain and tensioner etc which will result in severe engine damage.
Also do not rotate the engine with the tensioner removed as the resulting slack can cause the chain to jump the sprockets and if gone un-noticed can put the timing out, again risking poor running, engine damage, bent valves etc.

Julian_Boolean wrote: Thanks for that, makes a lot of sense.

Took the carbs and rubbers off this morning, inlet tracts are very smooth and look like they've been gas flowed.
They've got A stamped into the bottom of them.

The "A" stamp identifies the head as a Gpz Unitrack head.
These were factory ported but not to the extent of being immediately obvious (just cleaned up) so it sounds like it may have had some extra work done by the PO or professionally.

Thanks, do you know if the Unitrak head has a larger combustion chamber than the other J heads?

The unitrack has slightly less combustion chamber volume than the 998cc J but more than the earlier 900/1015cc kickstart engines.
It feature a twin swirl (bathtub) chamber design with larger valves than the J and a steeper (more upright) valve angle.
Ports are larger too as well as slightly lumpier cams.

zed1015 wrote:

Julian_Boolean wrote: Thanks, I've counted the pins and the timing is correct.
Why does the tensioner need releasing before putting the cover on, won't the cover push down on the chain and sort the tension out?

The tensioner only moves one way once assembled on the engine.
Just fitting the cam cover without releasing the tension will put massive loads on the cam chain and tensioner etc which will result in severe engine damage.
Also do not rotate the engine with the tensioner removed as the resulting slack can cause the chain to jump the sprockets and if gone un-noticed can put the timing out, again risking poor running, engine damage, bent valves etc.

I adjusted the valves on many J motors with the side cap off and side wedge removed. We did them that way every day and never had one jump time. There's a spring behind the main plunger that puts enough tension on the chain with the side wedge removed. Just don't ever run the engine with the side wedge and cap removed.

LarryC wrote:

zed1015 wrote:

Julian_Boolean wrote: Thanks, I've counted the pins and the timing is correct.
Why does the tensioner need releasing before putting the cover on, won't the cover push down on the chain and sort the tension out?

The tensioner only moves one way once assembled on the engine.
Just fitting the cam cover without releasing the tension will put massive loads on the cam chain and tensioner etc which will result in severe engine damage.
Also do not rotate the engine with the tensioner removed as the resulting slack can cause the chain to jump the sprockets and if gone un-noticed can put the timing out, again risking poor running, engine damage, bent valves etc.

I adjusted the valves on many J motors with the side cap off and side wedge removed. We did them that way every day and never had one jump time. There's a spring behind the main plunger that puts enough tension on the chain with the side wedge removed. Just don't ever run the engine with the side wedge and cap removed.

Would like to clarify that I advised not to rotate the engine with the Tensioner removed not Tension removed or tensioner un-locked.
Two entirely different scenarios .
And whether intentional or not, I have to point out that the highlighted portion of your reply in context with quoting my answer may imply that I am giving incorrect or misleading advice on this which is not the case.

Cover won't actually bolt down with tension and if you force it you'll warp the cover. What's interesting is although I think it makes no odds is once tentioned it pulls both cams out but only very slightly