Low RPM knocking

Have you checked the valves? Even rebuilt they can tighten up.
Steve

I said the center of the ENGINE..as In if your looking down it from the back right down the center line of the block. I also said to the REAR area of the clutch cover BEHIND the "dome" for a reference if your looking at it from the side of the bike. Nowhere did i say its coming from the center of the clutch COVER.

I have about 3/8 inch free play up at the lever and clutch perch so one would think the pressure plate is NOT being held up from too tight an adjustment or any cable problem. Rides and shifts smooth as silk but I cant stand the low RPM noise.

swest wrote: Have you checked the valves? Even rebuilt they can tighten up.
Steve

And how! If your valve re-surfacing job left very little margin on the valves, or the valve to seat contact is thin and way out on the outer edge with thin or no margins, the valve face / seat wear rate can be really high.... :silly: :silly: :silly:

chuck hahn wrote: I said the center of the ENGINE..as In if your looking down it from the back right down the center line of the block. I also said to the REAR area of the clutch cover BEHIND the "dome" for a reference if your looking at it from the side of the bike. Nowhere did i say its coming from the center of the clutch COVER.

I have about 3/8 inch free play up at the lever and clutch perch so one would think the pressure plate is NOT being held up from too tight an adjustment or any cable problem. Rides and shifts smooth as silk but I cant stand the low RPM noise.

O.k. - so.... READ THE FSM and perform an actual CLUTCH FREE PLAY ADJUSTMENT, not a CLUTCH CABLE FREE PLAY ADJUSTMENT....

How many out there believe that cable adjustment and / or play at the lever is proof positive their mechanical linkage or cable actuated clutch is properly adjusted?

From the description it sounds like the bike is stumbling. Could be a lot of things.
Steve

Stumbling from what though? The timing light doesnt skip or stutter from either coil when I was installing the Dynatek and setting the timing. Nice steady even paced strobe action from the light. I will pull the cover and recheck the valve clearances before restarting it again to eliminate that.

Kick starter mechanism?

Kicker was stuck when I got the bike. We had to roll the engine over with a wrench to unlock it....so thats a real possibility there. I had kicked it over a few times after that to check that it didnt hang up again and it didnt, But that doesnt mean something isnt askew in there. Thanks for the tip.

Thanks kraz-z for the tip. I had a late day at work so haven't had time to look at it again. Mine has points, I'm looking in to going electric many next summer.

Hope that is all there is to it - something that is relatively cheap and easy.

Happy Wrenching!

Oh, nothing really wrong with points if you don't mind doing the upkeep...I like electronic myself as it takes one variable out of the equation most of the time....

Kray-Z wrote: If it goes away at 1300, my suspicion is with carb balance and the typical primary chain rattle and clunk....although I can't exclude a bearing failure somewhere in the engine / transmission....
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+1, every bike I've had with a primary chain bottom end clunked and rattled at idle, or just above, when the carbs weren't synced properly, on the Honda 4's, both the primary chain and clutch rattle....