Gpz oiling system vs kz, oil cooler vs non.

I've modified my oil fitting blocks from 1/4" npt up to 3/8 npt.
I've purchased a 10 row cooler from earls with -10 in/outlets. I picked up some -10 to 5/8" barb 90's and hope to be able to run the lines up and over the head just like I had them before.

Hopefully this will solve my problem, with anybluvk my pressure switch will still function correctly.

I've also installed the GPz oil pump in hopes that a thinner gasket was installed from the factory.

I've got it all mocked up, I'll need to get some 120 degree -10 to 5/8" barb adapters instead of my 90 degree ones to get it the way I want.
I'm 40 minutes away from Earl's Indy so hopefully they have them in stock.

I feel like Im back at the fire academy figuring out how much pump pressure I will need to flow so many GPM at a desired pressure thru so many lengths of hose of different diameters
P S
I didnt see the other element discussed in fluid dynamics which is elevation change from the pump to the nozzle can have
a effect on pressure too .
Dave

Street Fighter LTD wrote: I feel like Im back at the fire academy figuring out how much pump pressure I will need to flow so many GPM at a desired pressure thru so many lengths of hose of different diameters
P S
I didnt see the other element discussed in fluid dynamics which is elevation change from the pump to the nozzle can have
a effect on pressure too .
Dave

There is a free software available from the EPA called "EPA Net" that models closed circuit fluid mechanics (just when you thought everything the EPA did was evil)...it looks archaic, but a lot of engineering firms use it (mostly because the price is right). It doesn't take long to learn it, and even though it is intended to model town / city underground piped water supplies and such, the principles are all the same for modeling other hydraulic circuits....the basis of the pipe networks is the Hazen - Williams equation for friction loss in a closed pipe.

Yes, elevation change does effect the total energy level, the (energy grade line, or EGL). Elevation and pressure is all included in the pressure "head" grade line (HGL). The difference between the two was the velocity component of the total energy. I think the equation for that went (alpha x V^2) / 2g or something like that....like I said - its been a while!

Speaking of which (hydrostatically vs. dynamic / kinematic this time), I read about an old Carnival trick that you bet on whether or not the carny could burst a wooden 55 gallon barrel apart by simply pouring a single glass of water into it. If you bet against it, you lost your money....

(Mental note - never bet good money against a carny!)

Kray-Z wrote:

Attachment Kawasakikz10001100.jpg not found

In this picture, as shown, is the main gallery at 7-8 psi?

Or if the main gallery is at 2-3 psi, how much lower is the head pressure, typically?

Asking in case MadShad wants to do pressure checks (in regards to the other thread on troubleshooting oil feed).

You could tap both ends of the head galleries and install a temporary pressure gauge at each point to make sure all four get the same pressure. It would be interesting to see how much it changes when the bike is on the side stand.

Then you'd be a step closer to going fully dry-block... just add some external lines.

In speaking with drag and road racers running the roller bearing KZ and GS engines in the past, I have surmised that the engines should never have less than 2 psi of oil pressure feeding the crankshaft main bearings at idle speed. Any less is a sign something has gone wrong.

At operating speeds, as in above 2000 rpm, I think the stock KZ roller bearing engines are designed to operate at no less than 6 psi as measured at the main gallery behind the cylinder block (just below the crank shaft as drawn in the schematic diagram above). I've never gauged a KZ for cam bearing pressure, but I would bet from past experience those plain bearings are in imminent danger of metal to metal contact at anything less than 2 psi at idle speed, and plain bearings survive best at much higher pressures. While the supply oil pressure does not carry the bearing load in itself, the supply of oil must be sufficient in pressure to ensure sufficient oil volume enters the bearing to prevent metal to metal contact under the highest loads the bearing sees during operation. With cam shaft bearings, the bearing load is directly related to engine speed, given the same cam profile, weight of valve train components, and spring tension.

Roller bearings require a comparative flood of engine oil, which is best supplied by larger oil galleries which can run at lower pressures to deliver the required higher volume. There is less pressure in roller bearing engines as those bearings bleed / spray out the oil with much less resistance than the tight clearances of plain bearings.

When I built high end 289 and 302 Ford (dozens) and countless 350 Chevy "smallie" engines (all plain bearings), during the break in I told owners to look for no less than 5 psi at idle (10 was better), and up to 70 psi max. pressure at 7500 rpm (any more and bearing clearances were probably too tight). At 5000 rpm, it could read no less than 40 psi or there was a problem...and bearing failure was inevitable under high loads and speeds. Failed bearings would show signs of wiping off the soft lead Babbitt coating down to tin or copper layers in the high load areas of the bearing shells.

Thankfully, not a single racing engine, Ford, Chevy, or Mopar, that I machined, over three and a half years of preparing between 1 to 5 blocks per day, ever had a bottom end failure, other than from over revving (drag racing) or overheating (circle track racing), but I saw many engines that did....new customers!

loudhvx wrote:

Kray-Z wrote:

Attachment Kawasakikz10001100.jpg not found

In this picture, as shown, is the main gallery at 7-8 psi?

Or if the main gallery is at 2-3 psi, how much lower is the head pressure, typically?

Asking in case MadShad wants to do pressure checks (in regards to the other thread on troubleshooting oil feed).

You could tap both ends of the head galleries and install a temporary pressure gauge at each point to make sure all four get the same pressure. It would be interesting to see how much it changes when the bike is on the side stand.

Then you'd be a step closer to going fully dry-block... just add some external lines.

When we get jberger635's monster GPz1394 engine fired, I'll either get him to post how it all worked out, or I'll do so on a new thread. It is a dry block engine, BTW. The plan is to carefully monitor EVERYTHING during break in.....

Don't hold your breath, though, as he isn't in any hurry to complete it at the moment - he has his hands full of dis-assembled Honda engines at the moment, winter is too fast approaching, and I'm out with my right arm in a sling for at least another month, followed by about six months of shitty physio therapy....

After that I have three or four KZ1000J's / GPz1100's to finish building, from stock to nearly pro-stock....and a pair of CBXs to re-assemble, too, plus an R1 that needs crash damage repairs....a new roof on the house...old barn needs to be torn down to make way for a new bike / machine shop....grass that always needs mowing....except when it needs snow shoveling....