Cam chain tensioner screw hole distance

I have a 1980 kz650. I'm making a manual cam chain tensioner from 1/2" aluminum bar stock to replace the one my bike came with to fix an intermittent rattle that I've had for a few thousand miles. Adjusting as well as rebuilding the "automatic" spring-loaded tensioner with new springs did not solve the issue. This may not be the solution but is easy enough to implement to see if it fixes it.
See the attached picture - I just have one hole left to drill.
Can someone please measure the center-to-center distance between the two mounting holes on their stock one? This should be the same for all 650s. I suppose you could do that by measuring the distance beteen the inside edges, andh then the outside edges. The reason I can't do it on my own is that i have to ride my bike to the place where I'm making this, so I don't want to ride there, remove tensioner/carbs, measure,replace,drill,ride home.

I measured a new oem gasket bolt hole spaclng c-to-c.

11009-1980 = 46 mm or ~1-13/16.

PS: some guys have converted the stock auto tensioner to a manual.

martin_csr wrote: I measured a new oem gasket bolt hole spaclng c-to-c.

11009-1980 = 46 mm or ~1-13/16.

PS: some guys have converted the stock auto tensioner to a manual.

Martin,
That's great, thanks. Yes, I saw some of those photos, but at this point I'm almost done, and this will also allow me to have a tensioner which is removeable w/o removing my carbs - annoyingly, the auto one I have has a rather thick mounting flange that means I need to pop the carbs off before taking it off. This will work around that.

Okie doke. I installed a kreiger tensioner. The tensioner bolt is kinda long, so the carburetors are a little bit in the way. doh.

Prior to this new chain rattle, did you remove and replace your valve cover without removing the chain tensioner?

aenikolopov wrote: .......the auto one I have has a rather thick mounting flange that means I need to pop the carbs off before taking it off. .....

My kz650-C1 tensioner has the thin flange (see tensioner on right hand side of image below) and can easily be removed / installed without removing the carbs. Later versions came with the thick flange (see tensioner on left hand side of image below)and interfere with the carbs when you try to install or remove the tensioner. Judging by the numbers cast into both tensioners Kawasaki simply modified the casting to make the flange thicker. Too bad since the early type is much more friendly. Ed

SmokyOwl wrote: Prior to this new chain rattle, did you remove and replace your valve cover without removing the chain tensioner?

With manual ones it's not that critical. Good practice though. Smokey, I'd check your guides before I went to a manual adjuster.
Steve
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/602294-cam-chain-adjuster