Fouled lobes?

Z1Driver wrote: I know we get tired of oil threads at Cog-online.org. I think the best bet is to use the oil weight Kawasaki recommends and change it and the filter often. I know Rotella 5/40 is popular and I understand motor internals are very clean. I know Kawasaki recommended changing the oil filter every other oil chage on the Z1 which I thought was nuts since 1974 when I got my first Z1A.

I typically change the filter with each oil change but it's not necessary. The filter's job is to trap particulate matter and the filter area is such that only a small portion of the filters capacity is used during a normal oil change interval. If your engine is in poor shape and grinding itself to bits that would change the balance though. By doubling the change interval more of the filter material gets used. If reusing the old filter it would be smart to remove the filter and dump the oil oil out. No sense if contaminating new oil with old.

Honestly, any modern oil with sufficient ZDDP will provide significantly better protection than the oils available when these bikes were new.
I'm with Nessism on the filter issue. It is probably over kill, but I like removing as much of the old oil as I practically can at each change.

Yeah, an extra $5 and the opportunity to check the crud in the filter area is good for pice of mind.
Steve

TexasKZ wrote: Honestly, any modern oil with sufficient ZDDP will provide significantly better protection than the oils available when these bikes were new.
I'm with Nessism on the filter issue. It is probably over kill, but I like removing as much of the old oil as I practically can at each change.

I used to be so anal about that I would use the kickstarter to "pump the insides dry" when I changed the oil and filter and then reprime it the same way when I put in the new filter and oil. Had to get that last dirty 1/5 quart of oil out of there........ :laugh:

bountyhunter wrote:

TexasKZ wrote: Honestly, any modern oil with sufficient ZDDP will provide significantly better protection than the oils available when these bikes were new.
I'm with Nessism on the filter issue. It is probably over kill, but I like removing as much of the old oil as I practically can at each change.

I used to be so anal about that I would use the kickstarter to "pump the insides dry" when I changed the oil and filter and then reprime it the same way when I put in the new filter and oil. Had to get that last dirty 1/5 quart of oil out of there........ :laugh:

WHAT?!?!?! You didn't disassemble the engine and individually wash each little piece in a vapor degreaser? You probably left behind 4 or 5 cc of dirty oil . I'm surprised you didn't throw some rods! :woohoo: :whistle: :blink: :silly:

Too funny :woohoo:
Steve

missionkz wrote: I pulled all 8 valves out and replaced all the valve guide seals today.
I forgot what pain it is to pick those seals off the guide without the right tool.
Yes, I used those pale blue/green Viton seals you all rave about.
Even though the old ones had less the 4000 miles on them.
(I replaced the ones I put in last year in the spring.)
Those were the black ones from Z1.

I install lots of valve seals. All you need is your finger and a little lube. They push right on.

BTW, those cams are toast. Toss them in the trash. I've thrown out lots of stock ones but I believe I have a set laying around. If you want them, contact me and cover the shipping. You can have them for no cost. Also, I"ve never seen stock cam lobes fail like that. You must have an oiling issue somewhere. That needs to be addressed before you install another set.

The smart play here is simple. Pull the oil pan and have a look at the oil pump screen. You can pull the pump and get the screen off with a small screwdriver if it's really plugged up. I've torn engines down that the screens were about 75% covered with crud. Often it's silicone that was carelessly applied too liberally during assembly or maintenance.

If the motor is a 77 then you have the old charging system and there won't be any orange epoxy fragments from the alternator rotor. On models with the later charging systems you frequently find that stuff in the pan and on the pump screen.

swest wrote: With your motor, some "drop in" mid range cams will do the bike good.
Steve

Yes they would BUT don't ever think for one second that drop in means you can drop them in. I've seen more than a couple sets of Web 118s that needed the slag ground off the sides of the lobes on cylinder #4 exhaust or they would grind up the tappet bore. Also make dam certain the sprocket boss doesn't drag n the cam chain tunnel because I've seen that as well.

Quality Control seems to be a thing of the past in this world..... Never take anything for granted when you're dealing with aftermarket parts because you can get bit in a heartbeat.

If you're shopping for used drop in cams, watch out there also. I've had lots of sets of old Andrews 2x where the base circles are all over the place. If you want the best cam you can get.... by Megacycle because nobody comes close to the quality they give you.

LarryC wrote:

missionkz wrote: I pulled all 8 valves out and replaced all the valve guide seals today.
I forgot what pain it is to pick those seals off the guide without the right tool.
Yes, I used those pale blue/green Viton seals you all rave about.
Even though the old ones had less the 4000 miles on them.
(I replaced the ones I put in last year in the spring.)
Those were the black ones from Z1.

I install lots of valve seals. All you need is your finger and a little lube. They push right on.

BTW, those cams are toast. Toss them in the trash. I've thrown out lots of stock ones but I believe I have a set laying around. If you want them, contact me and cover the shipping. You can have them for no cost. Also, I"ve never seen stock cam lobes fail like that. You must have an oiling issue somewhere. That needs to be addressed before you install another set.

Very kind. Than you. I'll PM you.
I had no trouble snapping the new seals on. I had trouble picking the old ones off. Lol