Using the Cam Chain Tensioner

Nessism wrote: Please go back and read what I wrote.

Leave the valve cover in place but remove the tensioner spring cap and spring, and pull the cross wedge back. Then reinstall them all and you are done.

You need a 17mm socket and a long extension. Go ahead and remove that spring cap and you will see what I mean. And don't forget to pull out the cross wedges a small amount, but don't rotate it. Then just reinstall the parts again and you are done.

Tried that, found the dowel pin to be off-horizontal by about 10 to 15 degrees. Removed it, lubricated it, reinstalled everything. No change. I cannot remove the entire assembly without removing the carburetors for tool clearance. I even went out and bought one of those ratcheting wrenches, only to find out the wrench head was too big and wouldn't fit over the bolt head. I did manage to crack a the top bolt loose by 1/32 of a turn, then I couldn't fit the tool to turn it further anymore. I'm leaning more and more for a shop to do this, and that frustrates me cause I really can't afford it. Thinking of just hacking the whole thing off and installing one of those cheap manual tensioners. I'm also wondering if just the guide is broken inside, and if I remove the tensioner the broken guide parts will fall into the engine.

Take the valve cover off to inspect for damage before disaster strikes. If you have to pull the carbs then so be it. I'm thinking a broken guide.
Steve

swest wrote: Take the valve cover off to inspect for damage before disaster strikes. If you have to pull the carbs then so be it. I'm thinking a broken guide.
Steve

Those guides...the head has to come off to replace the front and rear. The cams will have to come out just to examine them. Perhaps you could see the back of the rear guide by removing the tensioner, and looking through the tensioner hole.
The upper chain guide in the cam cover is likely fine.

I would get an APE manual-tensioner vs. a knock off brand for a few dollars less.