Using the Cam Chain Tensioner

I've found that my cam chain is loose, but I've been pouring over my manual of my 82 KZ1100 Shaft and can find nothing on it's use. It will tell me how to disassemble it, clean it, and inspect it though. Very frustrating.

So if somebody could tell me how to use it that'd be great. Can I tighten it while the engine is running? That'd be helpful so I would know just the right point when the ringing of the chain goes away. Also how much should I expect to turn the bolt head before noticing a change? I'm planning on using a breaker bar for greater control and accuracy of turning the bolt.

Is the problem with an adjustable tensioner located beneath the carburetors?

daveo wrote: Is the problem with an adjustable tensioner located beneath the carburetors?

I believe so, 17mm head, attached to the engine. Smack between the engine cylinder head and the carburetors.
This picture should clear things up.

That is the original Kawasaki stock non-adjustable tensioner.
Follow the factory service manual instructions. It has a good description of the installation process.

Daveo is correct, the tensioner is not adjustable.

You can remove the spring cap, the cross wedge spring, and the cross wedge itself with the tensioner attached to the engine. It's important to remove the cap and spring any time the valve cover is removed otherwise the cam chain tensioner will spring out and you will over tighten the chain when the cover is reinstalled.

daveo wrote: That is the original Kawasaki stock non-adjustable tensioner.
Follow the factory service manual instructions. It has a good description of the installation process.

I've been pouring over the service manual for a couple days now. I'm not following Nessism. From what I read in the manual, I would need a new chain and that would require a complete breakdown of the engine which I am FAR from comfortable doing and cannot afford to have a shop do. I guess I'm going to have to live with this chain rattle. Sucks.

Do like Ed suggested. Inspect the spring and wedge. It might be stuck. DON'T turn the engine while it's off.
Steve

The only way to verify the chain condition is to remove the cam cover, and at-least measure the links per the FSM.
If anyone's chain had been over-stretched, its been mine for sure.

My guess is that the chain guides are worn, or the tension plunger has reached its effective limit.
When I had the cylinder head off (the first time), I found the rear chain guide was severely deformed where the tensioner plunger rod had pressed against it for years. The rubber had become heat-set into the distorted shape, and needed to be replaced. Replacing the guides was not the intention of my project, but it was the prudent thing to do at that point.
During the most-recent head removal last Spring, I discovered the front guide had a crack in it. While talking with Z1E on the phone, it broke into a several pieces when I dropped it on the floor.
Add brittleness to the guide-wear factor...but don't just take my word for it.

The tensioner has a spring which pushes the plunger out, one direction only. Once the plunger goes out the cross wedge piece keeps it from going back in.

There is a little rub block in the cam cover which depresses on the cam chain between the cams. When the cam cover is removed and the engine rotated, such as when adjusting the valves, the tensioner plunger moves outward slightly. Not tons, but some. So when you go to reinstall the cam cover the rub block presses on the cam chain and over tensions the chain. I suspect that's what happened on daveo's bike. The tensioner parts were damaged from over tensioning.

From what you say there is a good chance that your cam chain tensioner parts are likewise damaged or even broke too. I'd pull the valve cover and check everything out that you can see. Adjust the valves at the same time.

Good luck. :whistle:

Nessism wrote: The tensioner has a spring which pushes the plunger out, one direction only. Once the plunger goes out the cross wedge piece keeps it from going back in.

There is a little rub block in the cam cover which depresses on the cam chain between the cams. When the cam cover is removed and the engine rotated, such as when adjusting the valves, the tensioner plunger moves outward slightly. Not tons, but some. So when you go to reinstall the cam cover the rub block presses on the cam chain and over tensions the chain. I suspect that's what happened on daveo's bike. The tensioner parts were damaged from over tensioning.

From what you say there is a good chance that your cam chain tensioner parts are likewise damaged or even broke too. I'd pull the valve cover and check everything out that you can see. Adjust the valves at the same time.

That sounds EXACTLY like what happened. All I did was take the valve cover off, replaced the gasket, and put it back on again. Took the valve cover off again this weekend, found nothing but the chain does move up & down between the cams maybe 3mm?

So do I just replace the tensioner? Do I need to remove the valve cover again to do that or can I just remove and replace the tensioner? I really don't want to go into the valve cover again as removing the old liquid gasket stuff off the plugs is a real pita. If I do need to go into the valve cover again, what's involved in adjusting the valves?

Hello eBay.

Please go back and read what I wrote.

Leave the valve cover in place but remove the tensioner spring cap and spring, and pull the cross wedge back. Then reinstall them all and you are done.

You need a 17mm socket and a long extension. Go ahead and remove that spring cap and you will see what I mean. And don't forget to pull out the cross wedges a small amount, but don't rotate it. Then just reinstall the parts again and you are done.

Oh, and you MUST adjust the valves per the manual instructions or you will damage the engine. Your choice.