Crap!!! Valves?

Put a new valve in and lap it to see if the seat is even.
Steve

I don't have any paste here.....

But it is bent really bad. Check this video I just did... damn what happened?

Oops how do i upload a 15 sec vid?

Have movie maker/ youtube?
Steve

I'll try YouTube

Sorry for the noise.... just plugged it in and spun it... wow

[/video]

If it was slightly bent it would overheat and warp. How does the guide look?
Steve

You're going to scoff at this but you can use cigarette ashes as paste. Very fine abrasive. Maybe enough to see the line the seat makes on the valve. I've used it for polishing metal in a pinch. :whistle:
Steve

I can pull the new valve head out of the seat about 1/2" and push the head around a very tiny amount, like one or two thous left and right in a circle, enough that I can feel it move.... not sure what is normal but the guide looks clean and smooth all the way through.
If I reach down the valve spring bore and close up the guide end, where the bonnet is, it pops with a vacuum when I pull it out when slightly damp with oil. Not much of a test but....
The bent valve will not spin in the valve guide with the head push within 1/4" of the seat.
The new valve spins freely even as it touches the seat.
Maybe tomo, I'll see if a local auto parts store has a fine grinding paste available.
I can put a little piece of fuel line on the valve stem and stick something in the other end for my cordless drill to grab onto and try to bounce the valve in an out of the seat while spinning CW and CCW.
See how the margin looks.
I'm a bit disappointed in all this.

swest wrote: If it was slightly bent it would overheat and warp. How does the guide look?
Steve

Hmmm i wonder if it always was a little warped and over the last few hundred miles of this +95° temps on the open freeway.. warped it?
When I do a plug chop off the freeway with lots of 1/2 to a lot more throttle, the plugs insulators are very white with some light ash on the grounded lug.

The valve stem sticks out enough for the chuck to grab onto. That's how I lap my valves. The suction tool is a PITA. The auto parts store should have the paste. Usually comes with coarse and fine. Fine is all you need.
If it is lean on the top end but rich on the bottom, the valve would run cool then hot. I'm running larger mains but now it seems to be leaning out. That happens as the engine builds up compression. That is one reason not to make changes until at least 100 miles.
Steve

ok ran up to Autozone and got a little tube of paste.
Lapped it for a bit with my battery drill and a piece of fuel line, CW and CCW, maybe 45 seconds to a minute with light pressure, a total in each direction,.... really until I got a good FSM margin all the way around.
Reassembled the valve and spring,,, etc,
Filled the port with lacquer thinner and after about 3 mins a tiny bit of seeping,
Really just seeing a small damp area seeping. Across from the plug hole. But not running,
So I lapped it again but this time I used that white, paint polishing compound. Same as I used to polish that two stage urethane clear coat on the gas tank.
Clean and reassembled.
Been holding now for about 5 mins with no seeping.
When I get the head gasket, I might be done if I have thin enough shims to reset that .003" I like, with out trim grinding off the stem tip....

Can you put the cam in and measure the clearance?
Steve