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Engine debris-What is it?
- CTSZ1
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The rebuild of the original motor is supposed to be a slow winter project not a now thing!
Thanks
Post edited by: CTSZ1, at: 2006/07/08 22:29
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- CTSZ1
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- wireman
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- Pterosaur
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When's the last time anyone had a look inside the motor?
If the composite/hard rubber/whatever block has been worn off the end of the tensioner, the chain could be slowly sawing its way through the metal.
If there is also aluminum filings in the mix, the can chain could be making contact with the inner edge of the front of the cylinder block/cases, hogging a bit of material out of there as well.
Not to say that any of the above is definitively your problem, but I've seen likewise symptoms before, and that's always been at least partially the cause...
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- CTSZ1
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Pterosaur, As far as I know it has been years since anyone has been in the engine below the cam cover. I bought it from a friend who had it sitting in his shed for who knows how long. It had good compression so I bought it. I've not noticed a lot of aluminum, but there are usually a few small flakes. I need to drop the oil pan as Wireman suggests, should have done that before I mounted the engine last winter.
:blush: Guess that'd be a good time to look at the tensioner too.
Live and learn. Thanks guys! Any other thoughts?
Post edited by: CTSZ1, at: 2006/07/08 23:01
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- Pterosaur
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Pulling the pan is a splendid idea. Might want to get one of those little LED flashlight extentions and have a good look up, in and around as far as possible.
The relative lack of aluminum in the oil may actually be a good sign; what's being et up in there hasn't gotten at the block or associated surfaces yet.
Wireman's also right about FOD in the oil not being healthy for the trans/clutch and whatever else it may work itself into. Your filter is protecting you, but it ain't a miracle worker.
If I'm in the ballpark on your problem, you can pull the head and replace the top roller, front/rear guides and tensioner and get away pretty cheap - it doesn't sound like you have really big $$ problems quite yet - but I wouldn't go for any 300 milers until I got a look at her innards...
Hope that helps...
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- Leather
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- Pterosaur
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could it be stuff from the tranny? Maybe like from an oopsie shift or three?
Anything's *possible* - but it's not likely in this case. Those gears are *hard*. If something's eating gears, you'll know about it in a hurry, and it won't be quiet about it either.
The largest source of mild steel with direct access to the pan is the tensioner assembly...
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- RonKZ650
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321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- Jeff.Saunders
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If the cam chain guide is broken, you need to replace it before some serious damage occurs. Removing the cam cover and looking down the cam tunnel with a bright light and a small mirror will tell the tale. It's also worth removing the oil pan and seeing if you have much more scrap metal in the pan. You can remove the pan with the engine in the frame - you just need to remove the exhaust system and the oil filter / filter bolt.
If the front guide is broken, the cam timing changes as the chain is shortcutting that part of it's route - so not only is the chain now chewing the front of the block, but the engine will run rough.
Post edited by: Jeff.Saunders, at: 2006/07/09 08:02
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- CTSZ1
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Thanks again fellows.
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- trippivot
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cam chain guide failure is accompanied by lots of chewed rubber and plastic stuff and running noise is elevated like a band saw
hope it isn't a rod babbit bearing partially out seen that too .
look in the oil pan and the clutch covers there will be clues inside leading to the scene of the crime
Post edited by: trippivot, at: 2006/07/09 12:40
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