I broke my oil pan at the plug thread

I would:
tap thread
Drill hole in oil plug
tap the hole
Used WBweld to install oil plug.
Install smaller bolt in oil plug.

JBWELD would be a nigger rig fix that WILL NOT LAST.
All motor's get some amount of gas in the oil and the ethanol in today's gas WILL break down the JBWELD
and it WILL FAIL and end up dumping oil all over the back tire.

Just fix it right or bail on it and start over with a diff. bike or motor.

zukdave wrote: If a shop tells you they can weld that without splitting the case they're full
of shit. You CAN NOT WELD IT WITH OIL RUNNING OUT OF IT.

Not trying to argue over this; just trying to understand... Since the oil is already drained if the bike was laid on its side would the oil run off the area to be welded so the weld would work? The case looks pretty thick there, so would the weld need to penetrate all the way into the inside of the case or would it be sufficient for the weld to penetrate 50-75" of the depth of the case? Maybe even weld a piece onto the outer surface of the case after grinding it flat and then tap the new piece? Ed

It can be done. Lots of smoke though.
Steve

Ed you "could" weld a big patch plate over the hole but you would have to do a lot of
grinding to make a flat place to weld it to and still may have oil contaminate the weld.
If he still has all the piece's it can be fixed but you will have to split the case's and CLEAN all oil from it
and have a welder that can do it right so it doesn't leak.

riturbo wrote: What are they doing ? Are they going to weld . Tap out the threads and put the plug in send it back to you fixed or is that just welding the hole and you have to do the rest .If they are going to give it back done and you can move on with the project . I think its not a bad price . Can they do it with the motor in the bike or do you have to pull it .

The quote is with motor pulled -- welding and re-tapping.

riturbo wrote: Are you sure the motor is good ? Have you got it up and running ?

When i bought to bike the only problem supposedly was that the engine bogged at high revs. My friend drove it 20 miles home, and it would inconsistently max out between 45 and 55 mph. I started learning to ride some that day, and a little the next day, but I keep running out of battery and having the engine die and not restart (which could be a myraid of things). Bike was driven with no air filter when we left the seller's house (he forgot to put it back in?). Might have a short in the electric system... (or I just wasted the battery trying to start it when the engine can't catch). Broken petcock kept flooding the carbs and leaving gas smells (which i fixed).
Before the oil change I could not keep the engine alive over 5 minutes, except once.

riturbo wrote: I would at least do a compression check if you haven't just to know what you have before you keep throwing money at it .

I'm looking up how to compression test -- looks like you need the engine running, so should I put my oil back in and run a test while catching the oil as it leaks? (not sure how fast it will leak)

I am open to giving up on getting this bike working (and saving up for a new bike) especially with $100 only leading more debugging before I can ride

Search around on here . All the info is on the site . If you fix the pan sounds like you might need to clean the carbs next . All depends on whether you want to ride or wrench . You might want to buy something that needs less work and keep that bike for parts or a project to hone your skills .Might be better off trying to find a used motor, But read on here so you know what to look for so you don't end up with another lump.

ccpete wrote: I'm looking up how to compression test -- looks like you need the engine running, so should I put my oil back in and run a test while catching the oil as it leaks? (not sure how fast it will leak).

You do not do a compression test with the engine running, but the engine should be warmed up to normal operating temperature. If that is not possible, the compression test should still be done as it will show any major compression leaks. With a warm or cold engine the following still need to be done.

The battery needs to be fully charged.

The throttle needs to be held all the way open.

All spark plugs must be removed.

If you do all that and compression is still low you should perform a leak down test. That will identify where the compression is leaking (could be valves, rings, head gasket, etc.) If you remove the cylinder head before performing the leak down test you will have lost the opportunity to use that diagnostic tool. Ed

Here's a final update:
-Decided to sell the bike (with broken crank-case thread) for $350. -- the $300 loss is a big hit for my income but thats okay.
-For my next bike I will get advice before buying and look in a higher price range.
-Also it was good to learn all the things you guys taught me. So thank you