I broke my oil pan at the plug thread

zed1015 wrote:

650ed wrote:

swest wrote: Wrench whisperers. :lol: :lol:

I must admit, I borrowed that phrase from Kirk (keconomos). When I read his post I fell on the floor laughing at that phrase. Ed

There's a big difference between whispering and shouting at the bastard :laugh:

Very true! My wife has never accused me of whispering when I work on my truck or bike; especially when I bloody a knuckle. :laugh: :laugh: Ed

Are you sure that o-ring goes on the drain plug? Most I've seen use a bronze or soft brass washer.

Agree; mine doesn't use an o-ring. Mine uses an aluminum washer. Ed

Mine has a O ring.
Steve

Here's the part number (in bold) for the KZ440-D4 oil drain plug gasket. This part is depicted as #11009A on the diagram I posted earlier. According to www.powersportswarehouse.com it is still available from Kawasaki. Ed

11009A 92065-097 GASKET,DRIN PLUG

Wow you really had to work hard at breaking that

Just a thought... If you still have a few threads left and just want to get running on the cheap you might try this. I see these at the Auto Parts stores (O'Riellies) and might save you some time and $$$$. They are available in metric sizes. Clean internally as thoroughly as possible and apply a liberal coating of JB Weld to one of these:

AtLarge wrote: Just a thought... If you still have a few threads left and just want to get running on the cheap you might try this. I see these at the Auto Parts stores (O'Riellies) and might save you some time and $$$$. They are available in metric sizes. Clean internally as thoroughly as possible and apply a liberal coating of JB Weld to one of these:

if it is designed to take the place of a plug won't it still leak through the place where I have no thread in the case?

Looks to me like there are a few threads left on the inside of the case and that's all you need to hold it for the JB Weld to set up and cure. Take a cutting wheel to lop off that big chunk and try to smooth out the mating surface as best you can. Go as heavy as possible on the epoxy to seal it up. It won't take much.

I'd be reluctant to take the epoxy route on this. If it were to fail while you are riding, you will have your rear tire bathed with oil as the engine seizes .
A decent machine shop should be able to machine out the broken remnants and weld in a piece of round stock that can be properly drilled and tapped fear a new stock plug.

Which would you rather trust your life to?

+1 Ed

I wouldn't want a ball valve on my pan anyway. A rock or road debris could hit it and all hell could break loose. A welder could build up around the hole and it can be tapped to fit the bolt. :dry:
Steve