uneven idle after warm up

Howdy all,
Looking for some help on what most likely may be the issue here.. The problem is, on cold start, I full choke the carbs & bike usually starts right up & will semi slowly (lol) run up to about 4000 - 4500 rpm. (is that good?). Once I bring the choke down halfway & then a couple minutes later all the way down & bike idles well. So, I'll go out for a spin, mostly country side & behaving myself somewhat on speed.. When I come to a stop at a light or whatever, the bike wont idle steady.. The bike will idle steady for a bit then make a "spit" (like noise), idle low, then idle up a bit, then back down or steady & so fourth.. I have just cleaned the carbs, spark plugs are gaped properly (haven't checked coloration on plugs in at least 3 months), carbs have UNI foam hi flow air filters, & Jardin side cut pipes. Carbs have also been jetted properly. I have noticed some minor cracking on the intake manifolds where they mount. I have been told it may be valve clearances, but I'm not sure. Also, could this be a points issue? Any input would be Greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

P.S. I keep getting this message when I try to post a pic of my Bike "Attachment image size exceed limit allowed by configuration"

Air leak, spark advance sticking, valves out of adjustment, carbs out of sync.
Steve

Spark advance would be points? Sorry, just not too hip on technical wording.. (guess that should be the first thing i fix lol)

It should be lubed and move freely. The springs might be stretched.
Steve

If the carb holders (between the carbs and cylinder head) let any air leak in the idle will be erratic. Try this:

Make sure the vacuum caps are tight on the carb holder nipples.

Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature.

Temporarily set the idle as low as possible without stalling the engine. It should be down below 1000 rpm. The lower the better because when it is set low the carb slides are closed (or nearly closed) and this raises the vacuum level in the carb holders. The combination of the increased carb holder vacuum level and the very low idle amplifies the effect of the leak test.

Once the idle is set low, spray carb cleaner around each of the carb holders where they bolt to the cylinder head and where the carbs attach to them. If there are leaks, the vacuum in the carb holders will suck the carb cleaner in and this will affect the idle. It may cause the engine to stall. If the leaks are at the carb holder / cylinder head mating surface you need to replace the holders. If the leak is where the carbs attach to the holders you may be able to tighten the clamps enough to seal the leak. Some folks use starter fluid or other substances for the test, but carb cleaner works best as it doesn’t evaporate too quickly like ether and leaves no residue on the engine like WD40.

If you do need new holders just bite the bullet and buy them. Trying to seal things up with some kind of sealant or goop will only lead to frustration as it will at best only last a short time.

Ed

Thanks 650Ed! I'll give that a shot first thing tomorrow! That may be the culprit because it ran fine until time before last when I removed the carbs for cleaning. Is there a "Best" way to reinsert & tighten the carbs into the holders?

I use a smear of grease in the holders.
Steve

I spritz the holders with Armor All.

Good Fortune!

BIKEMECHANIC73 wrote: . . . I keep getting this message when I try to post a pic of my Bike "Attachment image size exceed limit allowed by configuration"

Good Fortune!

BIKEMECHANIC73 wrote:

Attachment 1978KawasakiKZ650.jpg not found

Pic in above quote is JPEG 225px x 300px.

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Sizes that exceed 2400px width by 1200px vertical, or slightly exceed either of those dimensions, may be automatically resized in a forum post, but attempts to embed grossly oversized pics will usually produce an error message.

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