Need some help with KZ1100 cam chain timing.

I've been trying for 2 hours to get the cam chain timing right on my KZ1100 rebuild. I'm following the factory manual which explains to get the IN/EX marks level with the head surface, and have 44 pins between the marks while the 1-4 pistons are at TDC. I've tried this 3 times and when I get everything put together it looks exactly like the diagrams in the manual. The problem comes when I install the cam chain tensioner to verify the timing is right as instructed by the manual. I install the tensioner and rotate the crank twice to bring it back to the 1-4 T mark, but now the marks on the cams no longer sit level with the gasket surface. To get them lined back up with the surface I have to rotate an extra 10-15 degrees. I figured I would ask here before I go insane! Any advice would be amazing.

Do you have a guide in the valve cover? That may be your problem.
Steve

The manual says to temporarily install the tensioner to verify the timing, then remove it and install the cover (which does have a guide in it). I wondered if not having the cam cover guide pushing down on the chain from above would change things, but obviously I wouldn't be able to verify the timing was right and I wasn't going to mess something up.

I don't have a manual for that engine but I suspect you have to put the cover on with a few bolts so you can turn it over to check.
Otherwise the timing will look like it changed because of no slack between the cams.
Steve

I gave that a try - Installed the cams as per the manual, put the cam cover on with a few bolts hand tight, and installed the tensioner. I then rotated the crank twice, lining it back up with the 1-4 T mark. Removed the tensioner, then the cover, and this is what I'm left with:



It doesn't look off enough to be off a tooth, maybe the chain is just a bit stretched? I think there was around 32k miles on it.

Your timing is correct.
The marks never precisely line up with the head even when new but it will run just fine.
Slightly varying deck heights, gasket thickness or chain wear etc make it virtually impossible.
The only way to get near perfect factory spec timing is with slotted cam sprockets and a degree wheel.
Even from new they were never timed to the factory spec to the exact 'N'th degree .

Thank you! This was doing my head in. I completely forgot to account for potential chain stretching/wear.

Ship it.
Steve

One thing, just in case it's actually changing with every rotation...

I was timing a Suzuki that my buddy had opened up (and messed up). Everytime I went to check the timing again, the timing would be advanced by a full tooth. It was driving me insane. I said there must be something in the bottom end wrapped around the crank. He swore up and down, that he dropped nothing into the motor. I asked if he's missing any parts, and he said yes: "one cam end plug, but there is no way it fell into the engine". Two hours, one broken bathroom mirror, and many fishkook tools later, it came out: the most mangled cam end plug I'd ever seen. He bought me a new mirror and a bunch of nice tools.

The point is, if something fell into the chain tunnel, it usually lands on the crank sprocket, and the chain wraps around it, which changes the timing every time you make a rotation. Don't make more than two rotations of the crank because you will start hitting pistons with valves.

When you checked the valve clearances and rotated cams counterclockwise did you get slack in chain between the cams. I am having that problem and trying to figure out if it is normal to get slack in the chain.?

If the chain was tight between the cams wouldn't it make the upper cam guide too tight when the cylinder head cover is installed? Ed

No When I install the valve cover the chain is tight. Just needing to know if it is supposed to go slack when changing shims . Thanks Brett