Chain rattles, carbs are synchronized.

I adjusted tensioner, I'll try again tomorrow. Any ideas? Should I buy manual tensioner? Can tensioner sprocket rattle? 81 has plastic car-type guides, mine (80) has sprockets, I think.

The sprockets can go bad. I put in Liska rolle sprockets. They don't come apart like the stock ones.
Steve

1980 has auto chain adjustment, unless someone has changed it. The auto has some bad reviews, but I never had an issue with it.

RonKZ650 wrote: 1980 has auto chain adjustment, unless someone has changed it. The auto has some bad reviews, but I never had an issue with it.

If your tensioner looks like mine (80 KZ1000E), it is not automatic! Read adjustment instructions in first post.
Automatic tensioners started in 81. I have 81 kz1000J, it has automatic tensioner.

UCK If it won't adjust that means the rollers are shot. If not replaced a broken cam chain will be the result. It cost me $500 plus to replace them. Add to that the cost of everything else, you're looking at $1000 minimum. The plastic in the rollers and guides get hard and come apart. Not a place to scrimp on. :pinch:
Steve

I checked a few rollers on ebay, they have some wear /pitting. If mine is like a roller from ebay, it can possibly work fine for another 5 years (or fall apart today). Pitting can make noise.
thanks for warning.

I can't tell from your picture whether it's the automatic or not. If the 10mm head bolt towards the end of the tensioner is just a short bolt tightened up flush with the body it's an automatic. 1979 debuted the automatic tensioner. This type of tensioner never needs adjustment if functioning correctly. The manual type used 1978 and prior had a longer 10mm head bolt and a locknut. On that type loosening the bolt allows the tensioner to spring, then tighten the bolt and locknut to hold the adjustment. The only purpose the bolt serves on the automatic tensioner is that it can be removed and a longer bolt installed to hold the tensioner for camshaft removal ect. Looks like yours is the automatic to me, and that's what they came with on a 1980ST. The automatic can be replaced with a manual that gives more adjustment range and more reliable.

THIS IS NOT AN AREA TO SCRIMP ON. I was thinking the same. It's automatic. They can have issues. It is also possible the rollers are worn and falling apart. Putting in used ones will only buy a little more time. You've said you don't keep bikes for long and I don't know about your state but if I bought the bike from you and I found you've been in there recently evidenced by the RTV. there was a catastrophic engine failure, I could sue you for the full price of the bike and damages caused by negligence. A broken cam chain can be life threatening.
This is what I bought for my bike.















www.z1enterprises.com/store/model/kawasa.../engine/engine-parts
The Liska products last a lot longer and are 1/2 the price of stock.
$500 or so will save $1000+ in broken parts and or damage.
Word to the wise.
Steve

Steve, what was condition of your old rollers? Did they have bad needle bearings or just pitting on top of wheel?
How was condition of needle bearings?
I guess you didn't replace bearing axles because they were in OK condition. Worn out needle bearings would most likely damage bearing axles.
It is probably possible to replace needle bearings w/o replacing sprockets. So all parts will cost me about $100

The sprocket rollers are rubberized to make them quiet. The rubber gets brittle and comes apart between the inner and outer steel parts. The tensioner roller is rubber, that's what is the dangerous part. It can wear away to nothing causing a cam chain breakage. The center rubber one goes away too creating slop and allowing the chain to "whip". Also the small guide in front will break causing the same effect and allowing the chain to grind on the head. I had one break and went through the time and expense of changing valves, guides and related components plus buying all the cam chain gear mentioned above. Like they say, "penny wise/pound foolish." :whistle:
Steve

Of course you did smart thing considering value of your bike is probably $5k or more.
I guess mine is about $2K or so. There is no interest for 2500, I got one 1900 offer.

Which one of rollers was worst in you bike? How many miles did your bike have when you replaced rollers?
I used windshield urethane to repair suspension bushing on my Mercedes. Urethane lasts forever and harder than rubber.
How was condition of needle bearings?

I bought it in 75, it broke in 78. I guess 30,000 miles. While I was at it, I went 1015 over bore. The tensioner was gone as well as the front guide. I didn't know about the Liska gear so I paid FULL RIPPING RETAIL.
Spending the money to make it right means it is worth more than a parts only bike.
Steve