kz750 clutch

I'm going to try that first and hope they aren't too far gone. Thanks for all the help everyone. Hoping the weather will turn and I can get some riding in!

Is your motor stock or been turned up some a pipe, carb's/jetting, pod's ?

If you do need friction's I'd go with the APE Track King stuff Jay said their as close to a factory friction
he could have made by the same people that made the stock stuff.
For the street I'd get the APE spring's and run three of the one's you've got
and three of the APE spring's this based on what's in my GPz750 motor.

It's all stock now I wanted to ride it stock and get everything freshened up before doing anything to it. Make sure everything is in order before I start tweaking it that's my plan for this year. Like I said before, when I get it out in the spring I'll change oil and readjust the clutch and ride it and determine then if I need to spend the money on clutches. I'm hoping due to the low miles they are ok I maybe put 400 mi on it last year.

Pics?
Steve

The only one I have so far, my sd card I had that had the pictures of it last summer got wiped somehow. For the life of me I can't figure out how to flip it ride side up either!

On your phone or PC?
Steve

All my pictures were stored on the SD card on my phone and when I swapped it to a new phone poof....all gone

Automatically formatted?
Steve

jklappa86 wrote: So last year my clutch on my kz750 ltd would slip under heavy accel. I've been looking at just replacing the friction disks and plates. Questio is should I order the springs to and just replace them as well?

Be warned, if somebody used car oil with moly in it, the plates may be ruined regardless of thickness. I wuld definitely replace the springs and plates.

Don't know it's just a bummer I had some nice ones of her all polished up in the summer sun now just have a dusty garage photo lol. Well I'll change the oil and get the cable all adjusted and go from there.

People around here are freaky about oil. Most 10W-40 auto oils won't mess with your clutch plates. The energy conserving oils with the friction modifiers that wreck clutches are usually 5W or 0W oils.

Have never read a hop up article where they didn't replace the springs with heavier ones ....many on here do many don't some I've read shim theirs for more pressure and some I've read replace em every 2 or 3 years but I think that's a little too soon.... its only a 10% increase and I hardly noticed a diff after replacing mine that were sagged .040...... (19 years old way too long) .... still using the original cable too after running Barnett springs since 83......

Ran reg Mobil 1 car 10/40 too and a ton of reg oil till just recently and never had a problem...... I have been running Valvoline 10/40 bike oil since I put in the new clutch and springs and will keep on.....