kz1100 top end rebuild

Hey guys,
With the riding season over in new england, I've torn apart my kz1100 top end to address an oil burning issue i have. My question is regarding my cam cap. When i removed my cam cap on the exhaust side between the #1 & #2 valves i noticed a small piece of metal left on the cam. When i inspected the cap, it was missing the identical small piece that had cracked out. My question is, does this need to be replaced or can i smooth the small void it left and continue to use this cap? Ive attached pictures showing the void left from the crack

Pics

Based on those pictures I would replace the cam bearings . I would do them all if it was mine and look for other signs of wear
. Causes, Lack of oil. oil pressure. heat , over rev , high mileage. Or pick from any of these. .
How are the cam sprockets and guides?
Since its apart I would check , Head , rings
Dave

Thanks for the reply dave.
I was hoping i could get away with it as long as it wouldn't cause scouring, but it makes sense to just replace. If I'm remembering correctly, you cant just replace one? Do they need to be done in pairs of cap to head or across the whole cam? I believe it happened from lack of lubrication from failed valve seals. It was running strong and reliably but losing oil rather quickly. The cam sprockets and guides look like new and show little to no wear.

So as a minimum Replace valve guide seals and all cam bearings
Use good judgement from there
Dave

Thanks for the advice, this is my first time taking apart a 4 stroke motor with cams and valves. While i have an expert (impressive bike dave) i was looking into methods of cleaning my cylinders and head and came across a place close to me that does vapor blasting. Do you know anything about media blasting the internals of the valve and cam area? Id be concerned with the valve guides or other specified tolerance areas but i believe people do glass Bead blasting. Or what do you typically do for cleaning nasty buildup or carbon? Thanks!

Do you have a factory real manual yet ? Must have this bible to move forward.
Have you considered sending the head to a specialist like Larry Cavanaugh ?
Did you do a cylinder compression and leak down test prior to disassemble
Dave

I dont have a factory manual, but i do have a Clymer maitenance & Repair manual that seems to include everything im doing. What would a specialist do? I have it down to the pistons now, i was going to hone/deglaze the cylinders and install new rings, lap the valves, replace the valve seals and possibly springs along with the new cam bearings i now know i need as well. I did a compression test before dissassembly and they were as follow:
#1 175psi
#2 150psi
#3 155psi
#4 180psi
And although i didn't do a leak down test, they held that compression for a few minutes before i released pressure.

All very good except please find a Kaw factory manual They are worth it . 650 ed here can write volumes on the differences. ( No Offense Ed)
With those numbers you should be fine as described. I would do the valve springs now, I use APE springs , but Im not near stock. If you do a site search you will find existing threads covering all your needs including tips on valve lapping. . I use all Cometic gaskets , but factory are good too. Specialist on head never hurts but you should be ok for minor rebuild vs guides and new valves
Hope this helps
Dave

Thank you dave. You've been a big help

I've been looking for new stock valve springs everywhere and cant seem to find any. However i can find aftermarket high tension spring for up to .440 lift. So if its UP TO .440 can I use these with my stock cams?

Get the first step Kibblewhites or APE springs. Heavy springs will wear out the seats faster. Looks like the cam locator cut a shred of material and it got in the cam bearing. You could probably use them but if you're going that far why not replace the bearings. I replaced mine after 30 years two years ago. No big improvement, just piece of mind.
Steve