Engine swap L3 and L4

Hmm sound interesting, I want to try that. How do I hook up the test light to the LH pickup?
I think the manual said to connect one end of the test light to the positive of the coil and ground the other end to the engine case?

Something occurred to me. Compare both spark advance units to see if the marks are in the same place relating the the notch on the back. That would screw things up. :whistle:
Steve

swest wrote: Something occurred to me. Compare both spark advance units to see if the marks are in the same place relating the the notch on the back. That would screw things up. :whistle:
Steve

That was going to be my next suggestion, although that's also why I suggested manually turning the engine to see where it actually sparks. Somewhere the timing has to be a mile off if you don't get sputter or pop or bang when trying to start it and fuel is present. The timing marks being different relative to the key/dowel of the different advancer could certainly cause that.. This seems to be one of those issues where the cause has to be something really simple, it's just finding what it is.

Yep, it usually is.

But the spark advancer I'm using is originally from the motor, just the rotor and pick up plate are Dynatek.

Before you go further, make sure you have fat blue sparks on all four plugs, Make sure the plugs are grounded against the motor when cranking or you can stress the ignition amp.

Then it will be a case of timing or mixed up plug leads.

p.s. remove and clean up your battery -ve to motor ground point, just behind the clutch cover on these.

Whilst the GPz550 are my personal favourite, the best times of my life have been on it, the 750 - whilst not a great deal quicker are better handling and steering imo. Thier grandfather, the z650 was also good in this regard - and not so much less performance than the 900.