Engine swap L3 and L4

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26 Oct 2015 08:31 #696026 by Nessism
Replied by Nessism on topic Re:Engine swap L3 and L4
The bike should fire with the L3 advance unit and the Dyna S. The Dyna S needs 3-5 ohm coils so you may need ballast resistors to be added in line with your stock coils. With the Dyna S you need to bypass the stock ignitor completely (remove it from the bike) too. The bike should also fire with the L4 ignition parts installed (including the NON advancing rotor device). As mentioned though, you need to check the timing to see if any plate hole slotting is needed.

Low compression because someone didn't adjust the valves is common. The compression is often restored by properly shimming the valves and then applying the old "Italian Tune Up" technique. Be sure to adjust the valves on your new engine or the compression will go away on that one too. Details in your factory Kawasaki service manual.

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  • Tyrell Corp
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26 Oct 2015 11:10 - 26 Oct 2015 11:18 #696040 by Tyrell Corp
Replied by Tyrell Corp on topic Re:Engine swap L3 and L4
The 'Frankenstien' bit was as it was about 4 different motors grafted together, plus yoshimura pistons, a worked head and slotted cams... the minor differences in the later cranckcases really puzzled me. After I'd exhuasted all logic I just started getting desperate

Low compression often can be restored just by a bit of upper cylinder lubricant -Redex or similar and an 'Italin tune' ie rag it hard when fuly warmed up.


www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/598283-1978-kz750-smoke?start=20


This thread here page two I had 50 psi on one pot my 750, I was thinking it likely to be gummed rings - 1000 miles later and I rechecked it and it was back up to 150. The OP in thread was one of these typical wants to know everything without a word of thanks type so I didn't bother updating it further.

1980 Gpz550 D1, 1981 GPz550 D1. 1982 GPz750R1. 1983 z1000R R2. all four aces
Last edit: 26 Oct 2015 11:18 by Tyrell Corp.

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10 Nov 2015 05:43 #698041 by Auditor
Replied by Auditor on topic Re:Engine swap L3 and L4
Well, It's Nov 10 and I still haven't gotten my bike running. I'm in Toronto, Ontario, weather is cold but at least it's not snowing, YET. The '83 L3 motor checks out as far as compression. The mechanic said the compression was right were it should be (so I guess it really did have only 9000kms on it). Back to the Dynatek ignition, they also told me the pick up for cylinders 2 and 3 is shot. Quality Product. Took it back to the distributor here in Toronto and they sent it back to Dynatek in California. It's been two week with no word. I just called the distributor and he said it slipped his mind to contact them on its status. So I asked him to contact them and let me now whats up. I was hoping to get my bike on the road by the end of the season but I guess that's a no go.
Here's what my bike look like so far.

Attachment BrideofFrankenbike.jpg not found

Attachments:

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10 Nov 2015 10:36 #698075 by scubaanders
Replied by scubaanders on topic Re:Engine swap L3 and L4
Damn thats a sharp looking L3!
Hate to hear that you haven't been able to figure out the ignition.

Gpz750R1 1982
Gpz750A1 1983
Gpz1100A2 1984
FZ750 1985
Gpz900R -91

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10 Nov 2015 10:46 #698076 by Auditor
Replied by Auditor on topic Re:Engine swap L3 and L4
Thanks Scubaanders,

I paid $1000 CDN for it and dropped another $2000+ into it. I replaced all the wheel, steering head and swing arm bearings and seals. New chain, sprockets, starter clutch, air filters, braided lines, brake pads, handlebars, had the inside of the tank professionally rust proofed, installed an antigravity lithium battery (super small and light), and i did a rattle can paint job using, I think, Rustoleum engine enamel in Grabber Green. It turned out pretty good. The stripes I did with vinyl decal I bought of a local guy on Kijiji for $10 (4" x 10" roll in each colour).

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10 Nov 2015 12:55 #698093 by bountyhunter
Replied by bountyhunter on topic Engine swap L3 and L4
Dumb question: are you sure the coils are good?

1979 KZ-750 Twin

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10 Nov 2015 14:48 #698125 by Auditor
Replied by Auditor on topic Engine swap L3 and L4
Haha, Bountyhunter,

Yep they're good. All the electrics ran the original L4 engine.

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  • SWest
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10 Nov 2015 15:35 #698130 by SWest
Replied by SWest on topic Engine swap L3 and L4
You can contact them directly. They sent me a new rotor. $25. Adjusting the valves is in your manual.
Steve

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10 Nov 2015 15:36 #698132 by Auditor
Replied by Auditor on topic Engine swap L3 and L4
Thanks Swest!

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01 Dec 2015 03:58 #701312 by Auditor
Replied by Auditor on topic Engine swap L3 and L4
Hey People,

So I finally got my replacement Dynatek ignition. I tested the pick-ups and both 1-4 and 2-3 are sparking. I set the F mark on the automatic advance plate to the crank case mark. I turned the rotor clock wise until it stops and held it there. I slowly rotated the ignition plate from the full counter clockwise position to clockwise until the exposed #4 spark plug sparked. Buttoned everything back up and guess what? It still doesn't start. I did notice that when I rotate the ignition plate clockwise I have to turn it back just a touch to make the spark plug spark, it doesn't spark when i initially pass over the sweet spot, only when i back it counter clockwise a touch?

Anybody have Dynatek ignition experience?

Thanks!

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01 Dec 2015 05:10 #701320 by Nessism
Replied by Nessism on topic Engine swap L3 and L4
In case this is not clear in the instructions, but the left side ignition pickup is for 1-4 and the right side is 2-3.

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01 Dec 2015 05:16 #701322 by Auditor
Replied by Auditor on topic Engine swap L3 and L4
Yep. Got that. I spliced the positive lead for the pick ups into my rear tail light power, and the 1-4 pick up negative into the left hand coil negative, and the 2-3 pick up negative into the right hand coil negative.
I've got gas and spark but it still won't start?

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