KZ1000P Valve adjustment

Hey Gang, doing the right thing and checking the valves on my '01 KZP.
What a PITA. I have the Motion Pro Tool and I am able to get to the 1 and 4 intake and exhaust valves. The Inside ones are pretty tough.
I also noticed this:

Looks like the cam bearing has slipped to the right? Or is this normal?
If I have to repair this I might as well pull the cams. At least is would be easier to check the shims...

:sick:

ThatGPzGuy wrote: Hey Gang, doing the right thing and checking the valves on my '01 KZP.
What a PITA. I have the Motion Pro Tool and I am able to get to the 1 and 4 intake and exhaust valves. The Inside ones are pretty tough.
I also noticed this:

Looks like the cam bearing has slipped to the right? Or is this normal?
If I have to repair this I might as well pull the cams. At least is would be easier to check the shims...

That's not normal. You need to fix it. Hopefully the bearing isn't damaged. Yeah that motion pro tool is a joke. I just take off the cam caps. If you zip tie the camchain to the camshaft sprockets you can do it without messing up the cam timing. Taker it slow and be careful, those bolts are easy to strip. Don't torque them any tighter than 80 inch/lbs.

At least take off that one cap. Is it turned around? There's a cut out that keeps this from happening. I'm buying the factory style tool. Too easy to strip out the threads.
I salute you for doing this sir.
Steve

It looks like it just shifted to the right.

I don't see any damage to the journal:

Weird. I don't know how this can happen unless it was installed that way.

It happens. Make sure there is no oil under it. You can see how it shifted.
Steve

On the valves. Four were too tight (2 ex and 2 in) and the other four were within spec.
Should run much better when I am done.

ThatGPzGuy wrote: On the valves. Four were too tight (2 ex and 2 in) and the other four were within spec.
Should run much better when I am done.

Finished with mine two days ago, and had one shim thickness change (250 to 255), on one exhaust valve. The rest were great after 5000 miles. I am amazed at the significant improvement in engine performance and smoothness after such a small change like this, and the carb (re)sync that followed.

daveo wrote:

ThatGPzGuy wrote: On the valves. Four were too tight (2 ex and 2 in) and the other four were within spec.
Should run much better when I am done.

Finished with mine two days ago, and had one shim thickness change (250 to 255), on one exhaust valve. The rest were great after 5000 miles. I am amazed at the significant improvement in engine performance and smoothness after such a small change like this, and the carb (re)sync that followed.

And now you can see why everybody recommends doing the valves before dicking with the carbs

ThatGPzGuy wrote: On the valves. Four were too tight (2 ex and 2 in) and the other four were within spec.
Should run much better when I am done.

So what did you do to lock that bearing back in place? In the picture, it does look like it has worn unevenly due to having shifted...

The proper way would have been plasti gauge. I would have taken a punch to the boss in two places so it wouldn't shift again. I didn't suggest it because it could have caused more harm than good if done wrong.
Steve

jackleberry wrote:

ThatGPzGuy wrote: On the valves. Four were too tight (2 ex and 2 in) and the other four were within spec.
Should run much better when I am done.

So what did you do to lock that bearing back in place? In the picture, it does look like it has worn unevenly due to having shifted...

I have not done anything yet. What would you recommend? Replace them all?

ThatGPzGuy wrote:

jackleberry wrote:

ThatGPzGuy wrote: On the valves. Four were too tight (2 ex and 2 in) and the other four were within spec.
Should run much better when I am done.

So what did you do to lock that bearing back in place? In the picture, it does look like it has worn unevenly due to having shifted...

I have not done anything yet. What would you recommend? Replace them all?

Not that I'm any kind of expert, or may have worthy advice to take...but I would just replace that pair of bearings and leave it at that.
It doesn't appear that the cam bearing journal was damaged at all, but if that bearing were slightly further over, we'd be discussing where to get a good motor. My guess is that it was an assembly mistake, and has not shifted since...how would or could it?