Cyl 1 fouling out, where to start...?

1980 kz1000, I got my 2-3 cyl issue taken care of, was bad pickup coil... I noticed at lower rpm and idle it sounds like a cyl is missing out. After riding in pulled it into the garage and cyl 234 are abt 485 degrees on the header right from the head, and cyl 1 is at abt 287 degrees, if I Rev it up to abt 3k for 10 sec or so the other cyls will hit abt 625 degrees and number one will be at abt 385 degrees, when I pulled the plug it was wet and black. Put clean plug in and seemed ok for a bit. Seems all there at high rpm, or at least I think it is.... also have accel coils and stock wires with the resistance caps, should I run new wires? What's a good plug to run that will spark in many conditions and not foul out... if I pull the wire it seems to run the same.

Wet and black most likely means that cylinder 1 is running rich - might need to have a play with your cylinder 1 carb. It's almost definitely a fuelling issue.

I have mower petcock in line with thhe fuel line if I forget to shut it off I'll have fuel pouring everywhere... I'd assume needle and seat would close and fuel wouldn't be pouring out if it's running right... what things to I need to look for if I pull carbs off???

The best plugs to use are either NGK or ND in the heat range recommended by Kawasaki. It is not a good idea to try to mask another problems by using some non-standard plugs.

If the routine maintenance has been done in accordance with the fsm, then what you describe could well be caused by a sticking float valve. If the maintenance items, especially valve clearance and fuel level, have not been done, do them before trying other solutions.

If you have fuel running out of the carburetor, then the fuel level is too high, the float valve is not closing, or the overflow tube is broken.
Or all the above.

Why are you using a mower petcock??

I bought it this way, has original petcock but owner said they tend to leak so I have another one in line before carbs. I just shut that one off. Do I set float level with carbs upside down? And do I measure from where the bowl cover goes on?

Just changed the oil... some fuel smell to it prob from when 2-3 weren't firing... put back in stock ngk plugs rode it pretty hard abt 15 mins and seemed to be ok.., can tell there's minor tuning to be done, prob needs valve adjustments but all cylinders were at abt 500 degrees when I got back so they were all firing right now. I hate carbs.

Most folks around here use the factory petcock. Kawasaki and K&L make high quality rebuild kits for them.
The fuel level is set using the clear tube method, without removing the carburetors. It is clearly described in the factory service manual and in about a hundred threads on this site.
If the valves are significantly out of adjustment, it will be impossible to properly adjust the carburetors.
A leaking carburetor will almost always leak fuel into the crankcase. Diluted oil will not lubricate properly, and sometimes gasoline can completely fill the crankcase with catastrophic results.
Just picking random things to fix rather than following the procedures outlined in the factory service manual, especially on a motorcycle that you do not know the service history of, more often than not will lead to frustration.

Agreed.. so I can only measure float level with clear tube no? Is that just measuring the height? Also seems my kick starter not working.. is there another way to turn over motor to adjust valves? Guessing valve adjustment going to be my next procedure to do.

Float height is irrelevant. the actual fuel level is very important, and the clear tube method is the way to do it.

To turn the engine during valve adjustment, use the 17mm not on the right end of the crankshaft. DO NOT USE THE 13mm NUT.

PLEASE get a factory service manual before you tear into the engine. It will save you far more money than it costs.

Yes, you need a manual.
Steve