Jesus H christmas!! Piston pins

Where to find those teflon buttons this late in the game?
I did find the Spiral Lox clips here in Denver and they do look like they are the right thing for these pistons.
I've had these 72mm, 1075 pistons for MANY years waiting to figure out what I was going to do with them.
Actually bought them for my old KZ1000LTD.
I showed them to a local guy here today and he thinks they are really old and or doesn't think they are Wiseco... WHAT!??
They came in a Wiseco wrappings and box.
No numbers stamped on them anywhere but the supplied rings and the new Wiseco ring sets I bought last year, 2835XC, fit the lands piston perfectly.
I can't find any other info.

My old wiseco 1015 pistons look like that. I'd put them in using the stock clips. The wrist pins seem to stick in the piston and not the rod. I don't think you'll have any problems.
Steve

The obvious difference is that yours have a counter drilled hole in the skirt, by the pin boss so you can pick the clip out... mine don't.
Also, the channel bored in the pin bore to hold the clips is not round at the bottom on mine... it is rather flat looking.
Without that little hole to get a pick in, I had a devil of a time getting the original 1015 clip out of the 1075 piston after seeing if it would work....
I'd consider drilling a little relief hole in these (so I could get them in and out) and use the stock clip.... ?

I would. The hole goes just past the clip land. On the new style it is at the 5:00 position and the earlier style is at the 3:00. If it was tough to get them out, all the better. I thought I had found a used new style but the oil holes were bigger so I had to wait until I could buy a new one.
Steve

Buy a set of Teflon buttons,ditch the clips.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

if you don't have access to a lathe,
use a drill motor and a file and whittle some buttons out.

just a thought,

leon

Well I took a chance and put the flat Spiral Lox in the undisturbed flat bottom pin clip grooves and I made a little tool out of an old dental pick and over an hour or so, slightly rounded out the bottom of the other clip groove so I could get the wire pin clips in.

To refresh everyone, this is a fairly stock KZ1000A with old Wiseco 1075cc kit at 10.25:1 compression.
Two carbs into one pod air filter.... times two pods of course.
Vintage Denco 4 into 1 headers with the street baffle in place.
26mm carbs with 115 mains and 20 pilot jets, needle clip is stock setting, idle mixture screws are all within 1/4 turn of each other and around 1 3/4 out and while the carbs were off, I set all four slide heights by using a .062" wire feeler gauge and feeling a very slight drag pulling it out. Yeah it was a machinist's 1/16" drill bit. They were so darn close I think I wasted my time.

Set all the cam to shim gaps at .003" to .004" by swapping more then three dozen shims, in and out until I got there! LOL.
Put the rest of engine and carbs back together Sunday afternoon and it started right up on the third kick (didn't know what to expect with my 39 year old electric starter, 9 month old battery and those 10.25:1 pistons... so I thought I'd kick it over a few times first.. but it fired right off and idled right at around 1600rpm from dead cold with 1/3 choke! Wow... I did something right.
After a brief few moments and warm up, I slowed the idle down to about 1200rpm

OK...so just decided to go for it after checking for leaks and all that rot....
I now have about 65 miles on the fresh engine... of extremely boring break-in speeds of 25mph to 55mph using tiny throttle to 1/3- 1/2 throttle and never at any speed longer then one minute and lots of 1/3 throttle accelerating and decelerating from 15mph to 55mph in 2nd to 4th gear etc etc etc...
Most I've run is maybe +1/2 throttle after 50 miles and not over 5500 rpm yet.
A few things have come up.
#1 NO oil leaks!! Whoopie!!
However, I now have a very slight stumble off idle, when pulling out at a light...not bad, but not there before. Feels like a lean out but I'm not sure why, nothing has changed in the carbs.
The engine bucks a bit at 900rpm and I need to idle it at around 1300rpm-1400rpm to stop all the slapping noises.
So I'm thinking my stellar carb syncing with the wire feeler gauge, is not so hot or the pistons at 10.25:1 are not happy idling at 900rpm like the old ones.
But speaking of hot, the engine is definitely running hotter then before. Wow.
And, I think all four of my chrome header pipes are just turning a very light straw color a few inches out from the diffuser rings...that wasn't there before.

So, going from under 9:1 compression to 10.25:1 and adding a tiny 20cc per cylinder has my idle, low speed and low mid speed crossover carb jetting screwed up!??
The bike was running very well before and pulled strongly from 1500rpm-3500rpm and then like an evil freight train from 4500rpm to 8500rpm.
Not sure yet about anything else, as I don't want to push my luck with so little time on the engine.

Comments please...

Your pilots are fine. I was thinking a little big. I had 17'5's in my 28's. You might try 125 mains. I don't care what anyone says. They do make a difference off idle. That's what I had in my 28's too. I wound in putting larger seats in my float bowls. Running out of fuel WOT under load going up the hill. What cams do you have in it? It will run hotter but giving it more fuel might cool it down some. :whistle:
Glad you got it running. :woohoo:
Steve

Stock KZ1000a cams...
I'll install the oil cooler next week.... that might help.
I need to figure out a decent aux fuel tank so I can mess with the carb sync while running.
I've read here this is a waste of time with the VM26mm Mikuni carbs but I think it is worth a shot and I have the gauges.
It did idle smoother before the piston swap and I used the feeler gauge, carb sync method in the FSM.
I'm also mildly concerned about the float level, which I have not checked since putting the bike back on the road early this spring.
Since the pilot screw and pilot jet are more for the idle, off idle and up to 1/4 throttle, I am now wondering if I have the fuel level a bit low on one or more, not really engaging the bottom of the pilot jet in enough fuel in the bowl... nerd thinking. LOL
The engine sounds different with these pistons....
I did use all new rubber dampers on the cam chain gears and rollers... plus a new rubber center roller in the crank case.

A clear 1 gallon water bottle with a hole drilled in the bottom. You really need some cams. The 26's will work and syncing them will help. Float level is a must. The carbs will work well on your mild build. Add some cams, you'll be looking for more juice. :woohoo:
Steve

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationi have found over flow bottles off of yamaha banshee's work good for small aux tanks they only hold about a pint tho.



hth,

leon

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

531blackbanshee wrote: i have found over flow bottles off of yamaha banshee's work good for small aux tanks they only hold about a pint tho.



hth,

leon

Hmmm.... i wonder if a hard plastic water bottle with two 5/16" fuel lines glued in with RTV sealer would work well enough..?
Last time I did this I had my son squirting fuel in the fuel line with a large model airplane fuel bulb pump with the engine running, while I was messing with the slide adjustments!! LOL

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