symptoms of weak valve springs?

swest wrote: Cold is the heat range. B8ES is normal, B7ES is hotter, B9ES is colder. It's for compensating for hot or cold conditions. Running too hot? Put in a colder plug and so on.
Steve

swest wrote: Cold is the heat range. B8ES is normal, B7ES is hotter, B9ES is colder. It's for compensating for hot or cold conditions. Running too hot? Put in a colder plug and so on.
Steve

swest wrote: He's new and feels like he's been ganged up on. I know the feeling. That's not allowed here nor is outright profanity.
If you want us to work with you, it has to be both ways. Now, back to the question?
Steve

blink543 wrote:

650ed wrote: You state "was riding it today in 5th gear I was letting the rpms climb higher and higher and all the sudden the power was gone then I let the throttle down a bit and it caught again."

That has nothing whatsoever to do with valve springs. Your clutch is slipping - no doubt about it.

Why do you keep using car oil if you have had problems with the clutch? You should be using oil that is JASO-MA compliant. Castol car oil is not. Take it from a guy who replaced the clutch in his KZ650 after using the new formula (years ago) Castrol 10W-40. If you keep using car oil you will continue to risk having clutch problems.

How did you adjust the clutch? Do you own a Kawasaki Service Manual for your KZ650? If not, what did you use as a guide regarding adjusting the clutch?

Tell what you did to "adjust the timing". Did you replace the points and condensers? What procedure did you use? Do you have a timing light and dwell meter? Replacing the points and condensers is part of normal maintenance, but it has nothing to do with the clutch slipping.

Your KZ650 should be very quick, but it will not be worth riding if it is not properly tuned and has a clutch that is properly adjusted and not slipping. Ed

It's motorcycle oil thank u! Not car oil douche

blink543 wrote:

kaw-a-holic wrote: Lets start with this. Do you have a service manual for your bike?[/quot8e]

Yeah a clymer

That will get you started, but I would suggest a shop manual, you just can beat one for the info available in it. They have a great maintenance chart and section that should be completely gone through with the purchase of a new bike. The previous owners always say how they took awesome care of the bike but never seen to hand over the shop manual with the bike.

You mentioned that you were going to check the filters and tank vent, how did that go?

• Clymer is the CliffsNotes version of the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual (FSM), every owner wrenching needs to own the FSM OR don't come here looking for answers because we are looking in the FSM for you, some know it by heart
• timing at high rpm - could be a dirty or faulty timing advancer unit
• ignition coils spiking under heat strain from engine at high rpms - check coil resistance while using a heat gun to determine condition
• valve shims out of tolerance?
• valve assembly air switch bad
• valve assembly reeds bad
• plugs look on the hot/lean side, adjust air mix 1/8-1/2 turn to rich. Not enough fuel could be causing the engine to choke up with throttle

LarryC wrote: Where's Kitten Tooth...he could fix this....