Somebody PLEASE HELP!!!! :angry:

The valve clearance is measured with a thickness gauge (sometimes referred to as a feeler gauge).

The shim size is supposed to be printed on one side of the shim.
If the size mark on the shim is illegible, the shim size may be measured with a micrometer.

Good Fortune!

I'd like a picture of the full bike to get this thread back on track (or not). Maybe not the right place to discuss the other topic, especially since it has been ignored by OP.

Also, don't use a clymer. It does have errors in it, like about clutch adjustment fx.

You're right. We do need pics.
Steve

So here's what I've done I made a chart got the shims that were needed about 3 bucks each I haughty new gasket for top and so now am at the point were I am about to swap out the shims needed and see which gives me the gap needed since I bought up to 2 sizes smaller I just need to put the timing on correct FOR sure it is for the exhaust the ex mark with the line on it and for the intake side is the one I'm lost on the Kawasaki manual it's showing one and on a pic I got off here shows another mark point so to be sure which should I follow first or second picture ?

Looks pretty basic to me. When you start to install the cam, the mark will be higher, then settle into place. If not right the first time, select another link and try again. The pointer on the timing advance should be on T. Count the pins and install the intake.
Steve

So which one is it for the intake just want to be sure the z/5 or is it the z4/in or I could be wrong on both and it could be another marking .????

Ex is exhaust. If you don't know what you're looking at, I can't help you.
Steve

No no nvm the exhaust cam that I'm talking about the intake one . Look here are pics of how the exhausts can looks u can see the line aligned with the edge of engine and for the intake side I have it in between the 43 and 44 pin on the z4/in marking and the last picture is just a shot of the middle

OK, you don't have them bolted in yet. You start with the exhaust cam being sure the crank is at TDC the T mark. Read the first page and tell me what it says.
Steve

When I first removed the cover the timing was off then I corrected it to were they are now that's how I've done it so I'm assuming it's possible I got bent valves-.- I seriously thing the PO jacked up the whole bike and decided to just get rid of it and let another struggle with it making it not so good for my part. Regardless I will not give up and hope to see it fire

Why didn't you tell us that in the beginning? You can't tell the cam timing without the cams being tightened down. If your valves were tight, they're not bent. Now in your own words, tell me what the first page says.
Steve

That it's very possible to put timing wrong also that I should be able to hold my finger on the whole when it pushes up another is that a lot of times they won't adjust the clearance and ride it until it won't run . I also have already bolted down the cams and they seems to be spot on correct but the new shims that I have put still aren't giving me a gap?!! And that's that they both went down sizes