KZ1000 valve clearances

missionkz wrote: Is there any chance that jamming something like that into the tulip end of the valve head, under tension from the springs, slightly bending the valve stem or putting undo side pressure on the valve guide... etc... or is that ridiculous?

I've done dummer things that in my youth. Dropping that thing in and can't get it out WOULD make for a FK'ed up day.
Steve

When did they make the change from steel to bronze valve guides? Last I heard they had a smoking problem as a result and recalls.
I'll ask my neighbor, he was a dealer back then.
Steve

missionkz wrote:
Is there any chance that jamming something like that into the tulip end of the valve head, under tension from the springs, slightly bending the valve stem or putting undo side pressure on the valve guide... etc... or is that ridiculous?

If you use a big ass tie-wrap say of 14" long, then there is no chance of loosing it. Let it go, and it drops onto the piston and still sticks out the spark plug hole 1/2 a foot...You would have to be trying real hard to bend and pack it down in there.

Bending the valve stem; Sounds like its possible and I never considered it till now. I did this two times before my tear down and I had no bent stems when I opened it up. That's not much data. You also got video guy there who appears to have no issues..

I use two 14" tie-wraps together for extra thickness to just get the shims out; just measured them and that produced 3.5mm thickness. So the valve is resting on one side, extended down 3.5mm,

If you have a tool coming; use it.

SweetwoodSUP wrote: By the way...the specs on your 1980 KZ 1000 is .002-.006. Originally the spec was .002-.004 as Steve said but that changed with the 1979 model. My understanding was that there was a service bulletin that superseded the service manual.. My Clymers manual reflects that change and says .002-.006.

You only have one out of specs and it is only .001 on the loose side. I wouldn't mess with it at all, but that is just me.

With wear these usually get tighter as the valve pounds into the seats.

Thanks for the input--

This is the first I have heard of this spec change. Even looking at the 1982 manual, the limits are still .05 - .15mm

My valve that I am concerned about is Intake #3 = which is currently .17mm.

When valves are too loose manual states I can get "engine noise" my current diagnosis is a slight tap coming from Cyl 1/3. Sounds similar to an exhuast leak, but is not an exhaust leak.

Current plan is to swap intake shim #3 once I can get it out and measure it and then see if that corrects my tap.

Might be weak springs or a lifter cup issue. It depends how the motor was treated by the PO. When I didn't have a tool and being in the desert in the 70's, no Kaw shop for 60 miles, I pulled the cams to adjust them. In fact when I bent my valves in 78, I put in new ones but didn't have the shims I needed. I had the head redone in LA and took a bus back to the desert. Hitch hiked home. I was stuck. I cut out shims from a beer can, shimed under the cam bearings, poked holes for the oil galleys, put some between the cam towers and rode to Riverside to get the shims I needed. Desperate times call for desperate measures. Back then it was one car an hour on Dillon if you were lucky. Now it's a highway.
Steve

Steve.

Macgyver?! HA!!! sht man!!

I have plenty of empty beer cans.... just with all the rain I have up here.... and sand / pot holes/ assholes not ready or looking for bikes yet... its not a terrible rush.

Shim is the easiest of what else the problem could be. And... its not yet that bad. I am gonna swap shim... ride it for the season... whether the problem is cleared or not... and if not... tackle it in the off-season. Like i said its not terribly noticeable yet.

Wow Steve. That's bada**.

I'll put up pics of my old valve springs. They were beyond shot. A lazy valve may not be a problem in your case. Hell, with the bad springs the bike still ran like a raped ape.
Steve

Guys shim removed--- followed directions of just using the batwing and a magnet/small blade screwdriver and it came right out.

Now... Sadly there is no part number stamped on it to tell me what size it is... (Thought I'd get lucky)

Need to grab my calipers from work.

Could you guys tell me if it is ok to leave the tool in place till I acquire new shim or at least till I can measure this one? Or will this cause damage.

It shouldn't.
Steve

So -

Ended up ordering some shims off Ebay because nobody has them. I thought I ordered a 2.45, 2.50 and a 2.55. Got a 2.45, and 2 2.55s. I guess i need new glasses. Because 2.50 is the size i would have liked to put in. Took a shim over to my local dealer to see if I could swap or buy one. They brought me out a 2.50 and charged $5 deal!

I get home, and it just would not fit. Took it out, and to my surprise it was 29.5mm diameter. Fu*kers sold me the wrong size. And my own fault, I had my calipers in the car but did not bring them in. Lesson learned.

Well - seems my 2.45 actually measured 2.46... and the shim i took out was a 2.42. That being said.... using the 2.45 got me just inside clearance on the loose side. I am ok being loose over tight.

Anyways, changed the oil/filter and took it on the first true ride of the season. Did not notice the tap the way I remember it last fall, So. I am hoping I cleared up the issue.

Thanks Steve, Patton and everyone else who chimed in to assist me on my first ever valve adjustment.

Happy riding and stay safe everyone! The Pot holes up here are ridiculous. Might need to upgrade my shocks next

:woohoo:

Glad to hear it.
Steve