KZ1000 valve clearances

Patton, I've never tried to just use the "bat wing". Makes sense. Getting it in the right place and not locking the shim is a PITA. I might try it next time. I still want the factory tool.
Steve

hello people; I'm new and I'm also a visual learner myself and if there is none maybe someone could make a video of the job? Is there such a thing? Just like that old video the company made on disassembling a Z1 engine. It's pretty good IMO.
IBBY

You know what - great idea. I will take some pics when i get the tool.

wish me luck :woohoo:

This process works fairly slick without the tool

Get the tool.
Steve

The more professional shim changing tool is the factory tool (or an equivalent version of the factory tool), which is perhaps slightly easier to manipulate than the less expensive bat-wing style tool.


Factory tool





Bat-wing tool



Shim changing tools available from Z1Enterprises

Good Fortune!

god damn shipping.. hoping to have my batwing soon.... taking longer than usual. And I want to ride.

I have watched that gents videos on youtube. He is pretty handy. But that looked like a magic trick pulling that shim out hahahahaha

:evil:

I can confirm that I have had all my shims out using the "tie-wrap" method shown in that video. No grief or magic. Went fairly fast. I have not used the tool to compare.

But it seems that it would be a drag to have the tool show up after you realize you never needed it. So It may be better to just wait for the tool to arrive.

I don't like the idea of having something jammed between the valve and seat. Drop something in the cylinder and you're FK'ed. I will buy the factory tool in time.
Steve

Yea, truth is; If I had the tool I would use it.

Is there any chance that jamming something like that into the tulip end of the valve head, under tension from the springs, slightly bending the valve stem or putting undo side pressure on the valve guide... etc... or is that ridiculous?

By the way...the specs on your 1980 KZ 1000 is .002-.006. Originally the spec was .002-.004 as Steve said but that changed with the 1979 model. My understanding was that there was a service bulletin that superseded the service manual.. My Clymers manual reflects that change and says .002-.006.

You only have one out of specs and it is only .001 on the loose side. I wouldn't mess with it at all, but that is just me.

With wear these usually get tighter as the valve pounds into the seats.