PLEASE READ-- NEED HELP!!

That really sucks however there is not alot of oil pressure there. You cant afford anymore mistakes dont over tighten the tesioner bolts :whistle: . I would fill that spo with jb weld not too much though just build it ou a little and let it dry for a day. Then when you put the tensioner on fill it on the outside. It should not take to much if you do it right it will seal just fine with no leaks. But you want to do it right the first time. I would definitly use a ape manual tensioner. I dont like the wedge stile tensioners as they have failed in the past. oh and make sure to use a gasket you should get one with your new tensioner.

LarryC wrote: Gut the tensioner.

Spray off the area with brake clean to remove oil traces..DO NOT SUBSTITUTE CARB CLEANER.

Apply tape to the indicated areas in the pics. Also on the tensioner body where the epoxy may get on it. Goal is to keep epoxy off the tensioner so it doesn't chip away when you remove the tensioner again...

Seeing as how it angles down a bit, probably put some tape over the epoxy plugged hole to keep it from running out.

If you mix the JB and give it a little time to form into a tighter mix before you apply it, you'll be better off. It's pretty runny at first. Heat also helps the cure and speeds the cure time. Hair dryer would work..

Install gutted tensioner and torque bolts to 8 ft/lbs [plenty of torque..no need for more]
Apply small amount of epoxy and let it set overnight.

Tomorrow remove the tensioner, remove the tape...assemble the tensioner [not the side plunger] and install. Torque to 8 ft/lbs. Make sure your timing marks are correct for the cams...turn motor over two revolutions and align timing marks & verify correct cam timing.... THEN bolt the valve cover on...THEN install the side plunger, spring, aluminum washer and cap on the tensioner...

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^^^^ Larry gave you the fix. All else will fail.

Larry is the man.
Super nice guy and his work is excellent. He did some valve work for me last month.
Highly recommend him for any shop work that's out of your work range.

It's a beautiful thing...
Just waiting for my manual tensioner to arrive- and I'll be on my way!

You could file that excess JB down on the outside to blend it in for appearance sake. Otherwise, nice job.

Cory

I thought about that. But between the tensioner and the pod filters- you really can't see it. Plus- it's really adhered well- I'm reluctant to mess with it.
Thanks for the compliment.

Yeah, I'd leave it. The more contact surface the better. Good job.
Steve

You'll make more ponies with a 4/1.
Steve

Steve- what's your procedure for setting the manual adjuster?
I read zeds procedure- then I read that some people do the same thing and then back off a quarter turn before tightening everything down.
Trying to get my plan down before it arrives.

You have the J motor. It's different than mine. I would turn the motor over by hand and tighten it by hand and feel for loose spots. There's bound to be some. It's a chain and they develop loose spots. Get it tight by hand, go back and forth to see if there is any play, back off 1/4 turn if there isn't, tighten the lock nut.
That's how I'd do it.
Steve