PLEASE READ-- NEED HELP!!

I was putting the cam chain tensioner back on this morning and the damn pin on the left side was poking out- and I didn't see it while I was tightening the bolts.
A piece of the aluminum block chipped off.








Questions:

1. Pretty sure the tensioner is now unusable, correct?
1a. Buy a used stock tensioner, or go APE manual?

2. What's the best method of patching the missing aluminum? Jb weld? Silicone?

3. Is this area a "high pressure" area?


Please help- I'm at a loss here.
I was literally about 10 minutes away from firing the bike up!!!

Could try some JBWeld to fix it. Biggest issue you're going to have is oil leaking from there. But if you can do a good job with the JBWeld and get the gasket surface flat, then a new gasket sprayed with copper spray on both sides may work. Structurally it should not be an issue. And aside from any possible links the tensioner should function normally. Be aware, the Clymer manual has the wrong torque listed. For the Z 1's and KZ900. It is correct in the table at the back of the engine chapter, but not in the body of the instructions. I just about stripped one of my tensionor mounting bolts thanks to the Clymer.

The clymer says 20 ft/lb- is that the right amount?

the torque specs do not sound right .....all small bolts normally are in Inch/Pound.
Clymer books are not all correct...i would get a Kawasaki Manuel.

I do have one- haven't checked it yet. It's a PDF on my laptop.

Is there supposed to be a gasket between the block and the cam tensioner? I thought it was just an o ring?

Get a manual one. I never liked the automatics. JB weld will work. It might seep but no high pressure there.
BUMMER.
Steve

# 8 bolts are torque at between 11.5 to 16 Corse Tread
10.5 to 13.5 Fine Tread
Both at Inch / lbs

I think I'm going to use this.

swest wrote: Get a manual one. I never liked the automatics. JB weld will work. It might seep but no high pressure there.
BUMMER.
Steve

Tell me about it...
I was about ten minutes from starting it up for the first time since the top end job!!

There isn't a gasket between the tensioner and the block, is there?
I don't recall one, the gasket kit didn't come with one- it just came with the o-ring...

My machine has always had a manual one. I ran the stock one until this build. The stock one had a limited range. 30 years ago I had the bright idea of using a sprocket roller in place of the rubber one that would wear away. That and the fact I was using a Honda 450 plunger because it was longer, I broke a cam chain. I'm saying this because there are limits to what was designed. I was trying to use worn out parts longer. Bad idea.
You might be able to fix what you have and use it for a while. Find the manual one for that machine. If it came with a O ring, I suspect it fitted on the adjuster where it slid into the block. Does it have a groove? Pic?
You are so close now, don't cheap out or take unnecessary chances.
Steve

Gut the tensioner.

Spray off the area with brake clean to remove oil traces..DO NOT SUBSTITUTE CARB CLEANER.

Apply tape to the indicated areas in the pics. Also on the tensioner body where the epoxy may get on it. Goal is to keep epoxy off the tensioner so it doesn't chip away when you remove the tensioner again...

Seeing as how it angles down a bit, probably put some tape over the epoxy plugged hole to keep it from running out.

If you mix the JB and give it a little time to form into a tighter mix before you apply it, you'll be better off. It's pretty runny at first. Heat also helps the cure and speeds the cure time. Hair dryer would work..

Install gutted tensioner and torque bolts to 8 ft/lbs [plenty of torque..no need for more]
Apply small amount of epoxy and let it set overnight.

Tomorrow remove the tensioner, remove the tape...assemble the tensioner [not the side plunger] and install. Torque to 8 ft/lbs. Make sure your timing marks are correct for the cams...turn motor over two revolutions and align timing marks & verify correct cam timing.... THEN bolt the valve cover on...THEN install the side plunger, spring, aluminum washer and cap on the tensioner...

Yes, look it up on z1enterprises. But you can make one.