running out of ideas! kz550a

Hi Everyone,

I am new here, my name is Jeff and I have a kz550 that I have been trying to get to run properly for two years now. I am almost ready to scrap the whole thing!

I am not even sure where to begin so let me just tell you whats wrong and what we have checked and done over the last year.

Bike Specs

-1980 kz550a
-pod filters (DCC)
-4-1 straight pipe with a small muffler tip (probably does nothing for back pressure)
-shorai lfx14a2-bs12 battery 13+ volts usually
- brand new dyna s 3.0 ohm coils (Z1)
- new points and condensers (Z1)
- dyna wire kit 7mm non suppression cables with ngk caps
- relay circuit for coils 12+V
- new piston rings (Z1)
-Valves lapped and shimmed into spec.
- New top end gasket kit with rebuild
- 120 psi cold I have seen it closer to 135-140 when warmer ( but like i said it has no problem starting)
cant think of anything else that might affect the performance of this bike

Symptoms
-The bike fires up very easily even cold with no choke on a 6 degree Celsius day like yesterday.
-It idles fine. It is also currently hooked up to a mobile 02 sensor. It reads between a 10 and 11 fuel to air ratio at idle.
-when I take it out for a ride it reads anywhere from 6-9 and has 0 power after roll off (rides like a bag of shit). why is it running so rich? it should be lean with pods and high flow exhaust!

More on what has been done and checked
Fuel delivery TK22 Carbs
-Float levels were checked with clear tube method. have them set just around 3mm down from lip (loudfx's guide)
-Jetting - ordered a sigma six kit, 30 pilots, 105 mains on 1 and 4 with 107.5 on 2 and 3 as they specd. the needle is on the 3rd of 5 clips (stock is 2)
- pod filters
- in line fuel filter

Ignition
-new dyna s coils getting over 12+ volts with the relay circuit modification, (prior to this is it was getting just over 10 volts)
-new points and condensers, have them timed with a strobe light gun. 1 and 4 are perfect, 2 and 3 are a hair behind the alignment mark.
-checked the resistance of the coils, one reads 3.2 ohm one reads 3.0 ohm
- checked the secondary resistance and it was perfect at 13,000 ohm
- checked the cap resistance, had two that were all over the place in their reading and then two at around 4.3-4.7
replaced the two bad one with other caps the had around 5
-cylinders 1 and four seem to run stronger then 2 and 3
-spark plugs and piston heads and very carbon fouled, dry black soot, never and oil or wetness shown except a bit of extra gas on spark plugs from 2 and 3. probably because of the larger main jets.


So as you can see I have done a lot and still have no clue what is wrong. The one thing that has been haunting me every night is the cam timing and the valve lapping i did. I feel confident about it because I did it with two other friends and with the guidance of loudfx's website. But then you start to question your work once you run out of ideas for other problems it could be.

I did the top end rebuild, lapped the valves and re shimmed them. As it stands now. all the marks line up on the cam chain, and the amount of chain spacing is correct. the valve timing is all in spec with the exception of one almost out of spec exhaust valve on cylinder 4.

The only thing I never did was do the leak test to see if the valves were seating well. But I can tell you they looked amazing and super clean.

One thing that I have been thinking about as well. If the bike was running rich all summer(maybe ten hours on the bike after rebuild) then there is a lot of carbon build up in the engine that may be causing some issues and loss of power.

Anyways I hope some of you are able to help me figure out what to check next. Let me know what you need pictures of in order to help this diagnostic.

Cheers,

Jeff

Jeff86 wrote: Hi Everyone,

I am new here, my name is Jeff and I have a kz550 that I have been trying to get to run properly for two years now. I am almost ready to scrap the whole thing!

I am not even sure where to begin so let me just tell you whats wrong and what we have checked and done over the last year.

Bike Specs

-1980 kz550a
-pod filters (DCC)
-4-1 straight pipe with a small muffler tip (probably does nothing for back pressure)
-shorai lfx14a2-bs12 battery 13+ volts usually
- brand new dyna s 3.0 ohm coils (Z1)
- new points and condensers (Z1)
- dyna wire kit 7mm non suppression cables with ngk caps
- relay circuit for coils 12+V
- new piston rings (Z1)
-Valves lapped and shimmed into spec.
- New top end gasket kit with rebuild
- 120 psi cold I have seen it closer to 135-140 when warmer ( but like i said it has no problem starting)
cant think of anything else that might affect the performance of this bike

Symptoms
-The bike fires up very easily even cold with no choke on a 6 degree Celsius day like yesterday.
-It idles fine. It is also currently hooked up to a mobile 02 sensor. It reads between a 10 and 11 fuel to air ratio at idle.
-when I take it out for a ride it reads anywhere from 6-9 and has 0 power after roll off (rides like a bag of shit). why is it running so rich? it should be lean with pods and high flow exhaust!

More on what has been done and checked
Fuel delivery TK22 Carbs
-Float levels were checked with clear tube method. have them set just around 3mm down from lip (loudfx's guide)
-Jetting - ordered a sigma six kit, 30 pilots, 105 mains on 1 and 4 with 107.5 on 2 and 3 as they specd. the needle is on the 3rd of 5 clips (stock is 2)
- pod filters
- in line fuel filter

Ignition
-new dyna s coils getting over 12+ volts with the relay circuit modification, (prior to this is it was getting just over 10 volts)
-new points and condensers, have them timed with a strobe light gun. 1 and 4 are perfect, 2 and 3 are a hair behind the alignment mark.
-checked the resistance of the coils, one reads 3.2 ohm one reads 3.0 ohm
- checked the secondary resistance and it was perfect at 13,000 ohm
- checked the cap resistance, had two that were all over the place in their reading and then two at around 4.3-4.7
replaced the two bad one with other caps the had around 5
-cylinders 1 and four seem to run stronger then 2 and 3
-spark plugs and piston heads and very carbon fouled, dry black soot, never and oil or wetness shown except a bit of extra gas on spark plugs from 2 and 3. probably because of the larger main jets.


So as you can see I have done a lot and still have no clue what is wrong. The one thing that has been haunting me every night is the cam timing and the valve lapping i did. I feel confident about it because I did it with two other friends and with the guidance of loudfx's website. But then you start to question your work once you run out of ideas for other problems it could be.

I did the top end rebuild, lapped the valves and re shimmed them. As it stands now. all the marks line up on the cam chain, and the amount of chain spacing is correct. the valve timing is all in spec with the exception of one almost out of spec exhaust valve on cylinder 4.

The only thing I never did was do the leak test to see if the valves were seating well. But I can tell you they looked amazing and super clean.

One thing that I have been thinking about as well. If the bike was running rich all summer(maybe ten hours on the bike after rebuild) then there is a lot of carbon build up in the engine that may be causing some issues and loss of power.

Anyways I hope some of you are able to help me figure out what to check next. Let me know what you need pictures of in order to help this diagnostic.

Cheers,

Jeff

You said "Dyna S coils". The Dyna S is an ignition kit, but does not include coils. Did you mean Dyna coils? Or did you mean a Dyna S ignition with Dyna coils? Since I see you mentioned points, I assume you only meant the coils. 3 ohm coils are a little low for points. Their life will be shortened by some amount, but should still work for the time being.

What do you mean the timing on the #4 exhaust valve is almost out of spec. You can't independently time each valve. Did you mean lash gap? As long as it's within spec, don't worry.

Since you already have new coils, then I would also recommend an electronic ignition from a later 550/650/750. Or you can use a Dyna S ignition, but since your bike is a single phase charging system, the Dyna S might tax it a bit. The factory system would work well. But I don't think this, alone, is your problem.

The battery should get over 14v and stay there once the RPM's are above 2000 or so. If not, you may want to look into the charging system.

The compressions sounds too low. Kawasaki says 155psi is the bottom of the usable range. I wouldn't expect it to run too good that low. But that may improve some with some break-in. I assume you know to do the test hot with no choke and the throttle wide open. A leak down test would be good to see where it's leaking. I think this may be your biggest problem at the moment, if those numbers are in fact accurate.

Your AFR numbers show it's too rich (as you said). And if a KZ550 starts cold with no choke on a cold day, it's definitely too rich. Even in summer, on a bike that is slightly rich, I still have to use some amount of choke on a cold start.

On a Gpz, with pods, and more open 4-into-1, the largest main I use is a 103. That means a standard (Kz550A or Kz550C) would probably max out at 100 or 102. Maybe with a totally open pipe it would be in the 105 range. Sometimes people use a larger main to mask the effects of using a stock pilot or stock (fixed) needle, So maybe that is why they recommend such a large main, but in your case, it's just too big.

WOT, however, may not give a true indication of the jetting. It is possible for the throttle to open past full-open. Beyond that, you only add more fuel, but no more air. The Tk22 site shows how to tell where the slide is at. Actually, with pods, you can just take one off and see if the slide goes higher than the ceiling of the carb throat. The afr should rarely go richer than 9 or 10 under normal, or even spirited riding, and then only when you've opened the throttle a little too fast. If you go richer to where it's misfiring, the wideband will usually show really erratic numbers. When there is a misfire, and no burn, you have a lot of raw oxygen in the exhaust, so it will often register super lean, even though it's super rich. Then when it fires, it will register super rich.

This brings us to the jet kit. I don't have any experience with that kit. What type of jets does it come with? On the tk site, I have photos posted of the various jets I've come across, for comparison. The pilot #30 is puzzling. I wonder how they got that. There has never been a Kz500/550/400-4 that came with any pilot other than a #32. All of the rebuild kits only come with #32. No other pilot will substitute, so it would be interesting to know where that #30 came from.

I assume it came with adjustable versions of the stock needles, as they are the only ones I know of that have 5 grooves (the Dynojet needles have 6). 3rd from the top, as you have it, is a good starting point for the needles.

I have not seen much reason to run richer jets on 2 and 3 (compared to 1 and 4) on the KZ550's. They seem to do well with all four the same. If the two inner cylinders run hotter, they will already be running richer when hot.

I guess the first step is to figure out the compression issue.

Next would be a voltage check on the coils while revving. It should be closer to 14v. (But I don't think this is your problem.)

Next, I would go to 100 mains, and set the air screws using the lean drop method. The idle, when warm, should end up around 11.5 to 12.5 on the AFR depending on outside temp. If the air screws are turned out less than 1/2 turn, you will probably want to up the pilot jet to #32 (stock). Usually, with pods, as long as there are no vac leaks, I find the pilots have to drilled out to at least 34, sometimes 37.

perhaps i can share from my experience with WBO2 and carb tuning -
before you start, be absolutely sure that there is no exhaust leak or before the WB sensor, this will make sure that you are measuring your AFR correctly.
then, you want to set your idle AFR to "best lean", so tune your idle jets to 15.5-16.5 AFR.
as for the rich condition you experience when riding - it can be a problem with the mixture being too lean, which makes the engine miss-fire, which "fools" the WBO2 sensor thinking that there is too much O2 in the exhaust - an obvious sign of rich condition.

i had that problem with an injected system that i built, an intake leak made the mixture too lean, and the O2 sensor measured too much O2 on the exhaust due to the engine's missfire, leaning the mixture even further...

If it starts cold with no choke it's too rich. Rejet. If you have had this problem since buying the bike you have no way of knowing what the previous owner did to the poor thing. Some folks take their handy/dandy drill and drill out the jets when they install pods thinking they will somehow be lucky and make the holes just the right size (fat chance). IF a previous owner did that the numbers on the jets no longer represent the jet size. Ed

Thanks Lou, you beat me to it. My old GPz550 D1 was on 105 mains, loud open 4-1 pipe and pods with 22mm TK's.

Don't ever think you can just fit a jet kit and happily ride away into the sunset. One 550 bike I had the carbs on and off over 10 times ! Maybe go 105 all round and drop the needle then see what happens. You need to be really analytical on this, test, tweak, test, tweak...and for the inexperienced expect quite a lot of experimentation.

Don't ever give up - the 550's are my favourite of all the zeds and you will love it when you finally get it sorted.

You said "Dyna S coils". The Dyna S is an ignition kit, but does not include coils. Did you mean Dyna coils? Or did you mean a Dyna S ignition with Dyna coils? Since I see you mentioned points, I assume you only meant the coils. 3 ohm coils are a little low for points. Their life will be shortened by some amount, but should still work for the time being.
Sorry yes I meant to say dyna coils. These are the ones recommended by Z1

What do you mean the timing on the #4 exhaust valve is almost out of spec. You can't independently time each valve. Did you mean lash gap? As long as it's within spec, don't worry.
Yes the valve clearance is what i meant

Since you already have new coils, then I would also recommend an electronic ignition from a later 550/650/750. Or you can use a Dyna S ignition, but since your bike is a single phase charging system, the Dyna S might tax it a bit. The factory system would work well. But I don't think this, alone, is your problem.
I will try and track one down, thanks

The battery should get over 14v and stay there once the RPM's are above 2000 or so. If not, you may want to look into the charging system.
I have not checked it while running. I will do this and report back

The compressions sounds too low. Kawasaki says 155psi is the bottom of the usable range. I wouldn't expect it to run too good that low. But that may improve some with some break-in. I assume you know to do the test hot with no choke and the throttle wide open. A leak down test would be good to see where it's leaking. I think this may be your biggest problem at the moment, if those numbers are in fact accurate.
Interesting my Manual say 130 is min before service and 150 is stock. Ill check another manual as well. if my cam timming is not set correctly would this alter my compression. I cant see it being the rings, they are new, and the jugs were in great shape. plus i dont see or smell burning oil. and the oil level has not dropped. is there somewhere on here that explains a leak down test? or how to do it?

Your AFR numbers show it's too rich (as you said). And if a KZ550 starts cold with no choke on a cold day, it's definitely too rich. Even in summer, on a bike that is slightly rich, I still have to use some amount of choke on a cold start.
agreed. but how can it be this rich with the 30 pilots and needle on the third? the mains are not doing anything at start or idle, correct?

On a Gpz, with pods, and more open 4-into-1, the largest main I use is a 103. That means a standard (Kz550A or Kz550C) would probably max out at 100 or 102. Maybe with a totally open pipe it would be in the 105 range. Sometimes people use a larger main to mask the effects of using a stock pilot or stock (fixed) needle, So maybe that is why they recommend such a large main, but in your case, it's just too big.
Interesting, when I got the bike the previous owner had 96's. but the bike didnt run from the beginning. so i never tried them and had always assumed i needed bigger based on web searches.

WOT, however, may not give a true indication of the jetting. It is possible for the throttle to open past full-open. Beyond that, you only add more fuel, but no more air. The Tk22 site shows how to tell where the slide is at. Actually, with pods, you can just take one off and see if the slide goes higher than the ceiling of the carb throat. The afr should rarely go richer than 9 or 10 under normal, or even spirited riding, and then only when you've opened the throttle a little too fast. If you go richer to where it's misfiring, the wideband will usually show really erratic numbers. When there is a misfire, and no burn, you have a lot of raw oxygen in the exhaust, so it will often register super lean, even though it's super rich. Then when it fires, it will register super rich.

This brings us to the jet kit. I don't have any experience with that kit. What type of jets does it come with? On the tk site, I have photos posted of the various jets I've come across, for comparison. The pilot #30 is puzzling. I wonder how they got that. There has never been a Kz500/550/400-4 that came with any pilot other than a #32. All of the rebuild kits only come with #32. No other pilot will substitute, so it would be interesting to know where that #30 came from.
They had told me that with pods at idle and roll of that you actually get less air then the stock air box, because the air is not being funneled or controlled so the suction or vacuum is lower. which brings me to another point. when trying to synch the carbs, we could barely get the gauges to move. 2-4 moved up slightly, i forget the number but it was low. #1 would not move no matter what we did.

I assume it came with adjustable versions of the stock needles, as they are the only ones I know of that have 5 grooves (the Dynojet needles have 6). 3rd from the top, as you have it, is a good starting point for the needles.
correct

I have not seen much reason to run richer jets on 2 and 3 (compared to 1 and 4) on the KZ550's. They seem to do well with all four the same. If the two inner cylinders run hotter, they will already be running richer when hot.
Agreed but i was desperate to try anything and thats why I ordered a kit from them. www.6sigmajetkit.com/

I guess the first step is to figure out the compression issue.

Next would be a voltage check on the coils while revving. It should be closer to 14v. (But I don't think this is your problem.)

Next, I would go to 100 mains, and set the air screws using the lean drop method. The idle, when warm, should end up around 11.5 to 12.5 on the AFR depending on outside temp. If the air screws are turned out less than 1/2 turn, you will probably want to up the pilot jet to #32 (stock). Usually, with pods, as long as there are no vac leaks, I find the pilots have to drilled out to at least 34, sometimes 37.[/quote]
I will order some stock jets and go from there. I have the drill set to go bigger if need be. sadly i cant make this jet kit i bought smaller! dang

Thank you I will keep this in mind, I do believe its rich all over and not lean, the plugs and the build up of dry carbon on the plugs, piston heads(looking in from the plug hole) and the exhaust is insane!

Ravivos wrote: perhaps i can share from my experience with WBO2 and carb tuning -
before you start, be absolutely sure that there is no exhaust leak or before the WB sensor, this will make sure that you are measuring your AFR correctly.
then, you want to set your idle AFR to "best lean", so tune your idle jets to 15.5-16.5 AFR.
as for the rich condition you experience when riding - it can be a problem with the mixture being too lean, which makes the engine miss-fire, which "fools" the WBO2 sensor thinking that there is too much O2 in the exhaust - an obvious sign of rich condition.

i had that problem with an injected system that i built, an intake leak made the mixture too lean, and the O2 sensor measured too much O2 on the exhaust due to the engine's missfire, leaning the mixture even further...

forgot to ask as well,
what else can cause low compression if its not rings?
i checked torque on all the engine bolts, and i have new gaskets for the whole top end.
might also help to know that the bikes odometer when i got the bike said 24,000kms

Oh yeah, like Tyrell says, it's never going to be a simple one-time rejet. There are too many variables to juggle at the same time. Like him, I've had rejets that took close to 10 times... but that was before the wideband. The tk22's are about as simple as it gets for that size motor, even those have at least 4 variables, more if you include different brands of jets and shapes of needles. Luckily, there is more than one way to get a good proper jetting. I've re-jetted to get a bike to what I felt was just right, then started all over with different needles. Then started all over with different exhaust. This was just to start collecting a bulk of data.

With carbs, you don't want the idle mixture much above 11.5 when fully hot, and on a hot day you may to be as rich as 11. The reason being, carbs are not a closed loop like fuel injection. By being slightly rich at idle, when hot, you prevent the idle speed from climbing as the motor warms up. When the engine warms up, the idle speed usually always climbs as things just run better when warmed up (assuming it's not way too rich). A motor at idle, as it warms up, the afr gets increasingly rich (lower numbers) because the fuel burns more completely. By setting it for good power, like 11.5 to 12.5 (or even slightly richer) when still slightly cold, as the bike warms further, the mixture starts to turn to the rich side, which becomes less powerful, thus the idle speed doesn't climb as much. With fuel injection, the computer can continually adjust as necessary.

If I drill jets, I take a punch and obscure the number. That forces someone to measure the jet. Then they'll know what they have (Tk, Dynojet, Small-head Keihin numbers are the jet diameter in hundredths of millimeters).

that all makes sense.

any idea why or how it could be so rich at idle then? with 30's it should be lean in theory.

and what could cause the low compression if not rings? cam timing? valves?

135- 140 psi hot compression seems ok to me - most compression testers aren't that accurate. Try a wet test to narrow down the problem further. The zx550 models have 280 degree cams, the z550 models are IIRC 248 degrees: the wilder the cam the lower the cranking pressure . I don't think this 'low' compression is your problem anyway, more likely being chronically over rich.

Firstly I'd equalise the main jets at 105, . The big suzukis have differing inner cylinder fuelling to compensate for the heat differences but i'm not sure kawasaki did it onany of the kz models.. Just one step to 107.5 is enough to make it unrideable at WOT. Tune top to bottom, ie get your WOT main jet set, then needle etc

Your coils should be at B+ voltage, low coil voltage causes misfires and the ' relay mod' is just folklore and witchcraft. Also I'd use new HT leads and caps all round.

Even if the motor is a bit tired it should still pull hard to the redline. A bit more explaination of your symptoms might help too.

Jeff86 wrote: Interesting my Manual say 130 is min before service and 150 is stock. Ill check another manual as well. if my cam timming is not set correctly would this alter my compression. I cant see it being the rings, they are new, and the jugs were in great shape. plus i dont see or smell burning oil. and the oil level has not dropped. is there somewhere on here that explains a leak down test? or how to do it?

I have several manuals in my signature. For reference, you should grab all of them. The 155psi limit comes from the FSM which starts out with the Kz500. I see no mention in the supplement for the later models, including the gpz550 (which has higher compression), so I assume they meant that limit for the entire 400/500/550 family. The Clymer manual states 125 psi as the limit, likewise, no mention in the supplement for the later years. In my epxerience measuring mostly Gpz Kz550's, the compression measured on many motors, over many years, using many different gauges, was always around 180 psi, for stock motors. I only have one motor that may have been shaved as it gets near 200 psi. To me, even 150 sounds very low, and so 120 sounds very low. The larger motors (650/700/750 family and 900/1000 family) do seem to have lower compression pressures based on seeing what's been posted on Kzrider. They tend to run even down around 100 psi. I have some worn engines, and they are still up around 180 psi.

I believe incorrect cam timing would affect compression test numbers, but I've never played with that. You may have already seen the cam-timing notes in my signature, but if not, you can use it to compare what yours is set at.

You basically connect an air compressor hose to a spark plug fitting and inject air into the cylinder through the spark plug hole when at TDC of the power stroke. You can buy the fitting, or you can bust up a spark plug and weld (braze etc) a pipe to it. That's what I did.

You will hear hissing if it's leaking. It may hiss through the intake, or exhaust, or through the crankcase. Where you hear it will tell you where it's leaking.

Have you used other compression gauges before? Some are not made right. There needs to be a check valve at the very tip that goes into the cylinder. Sometimes they put the check valve far away from the tip. This results in very low numbers. The gauge must hold pressure across several compression strokes because the added volume of the test equipment requires more air to be pumped. Once the test equipment is up to a constant pressure, that's the most pressure the motor can build for the test. Putting the check valve further in lets air dump out of the test equipment, so each pulse never reaches full pressure. It's almost as if they didn't even understand what they were making, or what it was supposed to do. China.

Jeff86 wrote: ... but how can it be this rich with the 30 pilots and needle on the third? the mains are not doing anything at start or idle, correct?

Needle on third clip is a lot richer than stock. But with pods, I would not expect it to be too rich. Correct, the main has negligible affect at idle, but on start, it depends on how you start. On mine, when I know I need more fuel at startup, I give it a lot of throttle, so the mains do affect it. There may even be some affect if you start with no throttle, but I doubt it. Starting is too chaotic to really predict, but at idle, the needle does have some affect.

Where are your screws set at?

Jeff86 wrote: ...when I got the bike the previous owner had 96's. but the bike didnt run from the beginning. so i never tried them and had always assumed i needed bigger based on web searches.

I assume you would probably need to go bigger than 96, but I would try them as is first. With a quiet exhaust, they might work.

Just to reiterate, when checking the mains, you need to check this first:

It is possible for the throttle to open past full-open. Beyond that, you only add more fuel, but no more air. The Tk22 site shows how to tell where the slide is at. Actually, with pods, you can just take one off and see if the slide goes higher than the ceiling of the carb throat.

This being set beyond full open will sometimes result in the sensation that the bike is speeding up as you just start to close the throttle from WOT.

Jeff86 wrote: They had told me that with pods at idle and roll of that you actually get less air then the stock air box, because the air is not being funneled or controlled so the suction or vacuum is lower.

In my experience, jetting several 550's with TK22's and pods, this does not hold up. With pods, it always ends up leaner than with the airbox, under all conditions that I've checked.

I wonder, though. Does having significantly lower compression mean you need less jetting since the engine is not breathing as well as it should? I recall my friend having a really high-mile, very low compression, Kz650, and it kept fouling plugs. It was originally was jetted with pods and supposedly ran good. But years and many miles later, it was fouling plugs pretty badly. I reduced the jetting a lot to dry up the plugs, but it still wasn't right. My buddy sold it before I could really spend any time on the jetting. We replaced the entire ignition system and did a valve clearance check. The compression being very low was all I could find wrong. I think it was somewhere around 120 psi as well.

Jeff86 wrote:
which brings me to another point. when trying to synch the carbs, we could barely get the gauges to move. 2-4 moved up slightly, i forget the number but it was low. #1 would not move no matter what we did.

That's not good. With a fast idle, on the gpz, I get about 20 cm of mercury with pods.
It's a lot of reading, but here are my notes on manometers in general.
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Manomet.../ManometerNotes.html
This you tube link shows my manometer in use on the gpz so you can see how it looks with throttle blipping etc. (It was a really cold day, so I had the idle way up to get off the choke.

Jeff86 wrote: I will order some stock jets and go from there. I have the drill set to go bigger if need be. sadly i cant make this jet kit i bought smaller! dang