starter clutch 1978 z1r

hi guys. The previous owner left out some parts both thrust washers and a complete spring cap and roller. I've purchased these items and re-assembled. Now when I tighten things down I can no longer spin the clutch gear clockwise it's too tight. I am thinking I need a larger rubber dampener. I have a 2-star rubber dampener and before I buy a 3 star since they're expensive I figured I would ask here first.

I was told I could shave the rubber dampener a bit.anyone ever do this?

:whistle:

Is that the one behind the alternator rotor? Two shims?

yes it is. Mine did not have shims if you took the whole thing apart the manual calls for in this order 1 thick thrust washer. 2 roller barring .
3 rubber dampener (3 different sizes )
4 the gear. 5 thin thrustwasher. .


the previous owner had apart at one time and he failed to put back both thrust washers. He also forgot one complete set of springs caps and rollers. .
I've put these thrust washers back on and put everything together correctly using the same rubber dampener now I've added space behind that gear and now I can not spin it clockwise after I torque it down. I'm positive the situation now lies with the rubber dampener I cannot measure it the way the manual tells me to because I don't have anything to measure with I'm stuck in a wheelchair right now and can't get to the hardware store lol. I'm thinking I need a thinner dampener and was told I could shave the one I have but can't wrap my medicated mind on what I have to shave.

this is just a bump. There are two other members here with the exact problem, funny that we all have the same problem at the same time. I'm sure one of us will figure it out with your guys help. :whistle:

I am having the same problem with my starter clutch assembly. I tried sanding down the rubber edge of my dampener. I sanded enough to make the overall thickness less than the thickness of the smallest(one star) offered. It did not help. Is there evidence that your rotor has spun on the crank snout, i.e. galling on the snout or inside surface of the rotor?

yes there is evidence that it has spun.
BUT before I put the missing parts in I could at least turn the gear by hand .it was tight but could be turned .but cerntantly not spin.
Now before I even get 10 pounds of torque on it it's stuck.

Thats exactly how mine is. I can't even get mine more than finger tight before the clutch is locked up. I believe it is because material has been removed from the taper inside the rotor, so that the rotor can go too far onto the end of the crankshaft, smashing down on the clutch. Does your rotor have this ridge on the back?

DSCN0282 by seanbarney41 , on Flickr

no it does not. But your explanation makes a lot of sense. I am getting ready to leave when I get home tonight I will load the pictures I have and post them here looks very similar yours has that nick.mine does not.but you'll see the damage, I wish I could post pictures from my phone like I used to but what can I say I need to take a damn computer course just to figure out how to turn a laptop on. :blush:

One washer goes in that indentaion. The shim/washer is made out of a dissimular metal as to not friction weld itself to the inner and outer pieces. The starter flywheel goes in next. The next washer goes behind the flywheel and the damper is up against the case. You mean the spring, pin and roller was missing? You should be able to turn the flywheel one way only. That's a spring loaded clutch. If the rotor spun your lucky you could remove it. Was the woodriff key missing or sheared? I'd like to see more pic's.
Steve

I had no woodriff key.my manual does not show one for my model.. pictures to come tomorrow