1982 KZ750 E Valve Clearance Questions

Hello, I own a 1982 KZ750 E. It ran great for about two months then one day the mid range power was gone. Its like bottom end and top end power was there but mid range was sluggish. Then i gave it a few high revs and boom. Some flames came out of the engine and it wouldn't start after that. Iv checked the spark plugs. They are fine. Iv inspected the plug wires. They are fine. Each cylinder is getting a good spark. The engine turns over fine and has plenty of compression. The timing is correct. Now I'm checking the valve clearances. I have a manual but couldn't find the specs. I feel like they gotta be in there but i just can't seem to find them. I also googles it and came up with different model clearances that may or may not apply to a 1982 kz750 E. I wasn't gonna chance it and ultimately dig myself deeper.

First question: What is the valve clearance for a 1982 KZ750 E?
Mine are at: INTAKE 1 is .003 or .076 INTAKE 2 is .009 or .229 INTAKE 3 is .007 or .178 INTAKE 4 is .008 or .203
EXHAUST 1 is .008 or .203 EXHAUST 2 is .008 or .203 EXHUST 3 is .007 or .178 EXHAUST 4 is .004 or ,102

Second question: Should i shim any of these?
Third question: Based on my measurements could this be the reason my bike isn't running anymore?

Forth and final question: Anyone have any other ideas as to why it won't start?

Thank for any help!

The Kawasaki manual says 0.08 - 0.18mm for both intake and exhaust

The Haynes manual says the same and also gives 0.003 - 0.007 inches for both intake and exhaust

Neither manual distinguishes between E1, E2 or E3 so I am asuming the same figures for all the early 80s 750/4s

"Then i gave it a few high revs and boom. "

How high did you rev it? Ed

JR wrote: The Kawasaki manual says 0.08 - 0.18mm for both intake and exhaust

The Haynes manual says the same and also gives 0.003 - 0.007 inches for both intake and exhaust

Neither manual distinguishes between E1, E2 or E3 so I am asuming the same figures for all the early 80s 750/4s

Thank you. Based on that I'm out of spec on a few. If I'm out of spec by .001 on the high end I should be ok bc over time it will tighten and be withen spec. Is this correct?

650ed wrote: "Then i gave it a few high revs and boom. "

How high did you rev it? Ed

Not to its max by any means. And also I didn't hold it there at all. Just a few real good revs. I'd say about 4/5th on the rpm Gauge. I don't have a gauge so I don't know the exact rpm.

Bump

Ttt

Sort your valve clearances to spec but I don't think it was your problem.

Did it BOOM and flame unburnt fuel out of the exhaust? was it backfiring? I think a fuel or ignition problem.

Clean and check carbs, clean and lube ignition ATU advancer, check with a strobe if you can .

It happened so fast that I'm not quite sure exactly were the flame came from. It was at the engine. Either intake or exhaust ports. Not really any serious backfiring. Just cranks over and doesn't want to start. Every now and again the carb all the way to the right (number four I believe) has a mild puff or backfire.

Asuming your carbs aren't flooding, get some carb cleaner and spray it in when cranking, if it fires up on this then you can think carb and fuel problems.

If it doesn't , check your spark strength and ignition timing. Check yourATU also.

I have a dyna-s ignition system btw. When you say lube the ATU advancer are you referring to the ignition advance mechanism? If so my Manuel describes how to do this so it would be no problem. I don't have a strobe to check. My check autozone for one.

Sounds like carboration. Check the diaphragms. By how it acted though and the large clearances suggest you may have nicked the valves. Worn out cam chain and rollers? The valve to piston clearances are so close, some times you have to put a piece of clay on top of the pistons, put it together, turn it over by hand, take it apart and measure the thickness. That's for HP builds but you can see how close and easy you can nick a valve. Done it.
Steve