Just bought me a set of '83 GPZ1100 cams

I just bought myself a pair of '83 GPZ1100 cams to use on my KZ1000R2 bored to 1075ccm. I've heard good things about this setup and I grabbed them off ebay as soon as i saw them, just hope that I bought the right ones. Can anyone verify if these babies will work? Also is this a drop-in, or will I need any work done to the top end?

"Cam shafts from a 1983 KZ/GPZ1100. Engine # KZT10BE021376. Light varnish on journals, otherwise nice damage free condition."







What do you think about the condition of these cams, do they look ok by the photos?

They look OK to me. Would want to see them wiped down with WD40, inspected, then reoiled and wrapped in oil soaked paper towling until installed. I am jealous becuase I have been watching EBay for a set of these......must have missed them! Dang....

Cory

NakedFun wrote: They look OK to me. Would want to see them wiped down with WD40, inspected, then reoiled and wrapped in oil soaked paper towling until installed. I am jealous becuase I have been watching EBay for a set of these......must have missed them! Dang....

Cory

What a deal!

Use a scotch bright pad on them and they'll clean up like new. You'll like them with the piston kit.

Now you need one of these... :laugh: Actually this is going on a 1327 street motor with .465/.435 cams.... It will pull hard....really hard..

That head would work on the r2 but the r2 head is not the same as any J head

R2 should have the latter style GPz head on it. It had revised pistons too as I recall.

I would change the Valve springs. I put in a set of APE springs when I got the same cams.
New stem seals, and look at the valves and seats, guides, etc. Check it all, make sure its all good.
Watch out for the manual to give you the wrong torque spec for the cam caps. be careful torquing them down with the extra spring pressure. I apply pressure down on the cam, then fit the caps, relieving the added stress on the bolt hole threads.

Any tips on installing the cam shafts back in the engine? I have acquired new bearings. After cleaning up the cams (with a Scotch bright pad, is that okay? Some say just to use soapy water and a cloth) should I lube or oil them up in any way? I see that some advice to apply some moly paste to the parts where metal contacts metal in order to avoid the friction before the oil reaches the head. Is it sufficient just to apply plenty of oil to the cam before turning the engine?

I appreciate any advice. Thanks.

While I prefer assembly lube (probably the moly paste you mention) many just use lots of engine oil.

Actually, the Lawson Replicas had the standard KZ1000J engine - 79.01 hp on the CYCLE dyno - Nov '82 issue.
Kawasaki didn't even rejet it for the Kerker pipe.

Yours will respond really well to the extra displacement and compression & cam.

LarryC wrote: Use a scotch bright pad on them and they'll clean up like new. You'll like them with the piston kit.

Now you need one of these... :laugh: Actually this is going on a 1327 street motor with .465/.435 cams.... It will pull hard....really hard..

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I have one of these (bone stock ZN1100 B1 LTD) not quite as nice though , AND a set of 84 ZX1100 GPZ camshafts for it...

Am planning to use the valve springs and SOT buckets that came with the ZN1100 B1 LTD head (with 9,000 miles), or use the springs installed in my KZ1100-J head brand new in 2012, which have about 15,000 miles on them now. :whistle:

While researching part diagrams, I discovered the ZX1100 GPZ came with SOB buckets, and different springs (for that reason I assume). Further reading here supports using the SOT setup with the "Baby" GPZ profile, but not when going with high performance aftermarket cams.

So, I should be OK with the springs...right?

S.O.T with those cams....no problem. If you want to go SOB, I have several sets of GPZ buckets. Pay shipping and they are yours....

The GPz used different springs and also different retainers. While they were SOB retainers, they are not the same as the 650/750 retainers. The GPz Retainers sit up higher on the valves. That in turn yields more spring travel but less seat pressure if used with a particular spring, compared one to the other. Been a while since I measured it but as I recall it was at least .050" and I believe .100" taller installed height. I have notes somewhere. I might have it on my site under kzdata.html ......Can't remember...

You should be fine with the J SOT retainers and springs as long as the springs are still good. Shim to 90 - 100lbs on the seat and if you need more than a .015 shim to get that you should play it safe and check your coil bind clearance just because it's the right thing to do.....and you can't blame me if you have an issue... :woohoo: