Shim bucket opinons

I have to grind the bottom off the retainers bacuase with the high lift cams they tear the tops off the valve seals. So i was told by a respected builder to grind them down. So i did and problem solved.

Why don't you just sink the valve guides into the head a bit instead of grinding on the bottom of retainers.

One of the big cam guys say you can run .425 with SOT. I will try to find it.

Home-slice at Pit Stop Performance says .418 can use shim on top.

www.pitstopperformance.com/kawasaki-z1-k...82-deg-030-lift-p-25

"The PSP-3X must be used with
heavy duty valve springs.
The PSP-3X has .418" lift with
282 degrees duration at .030" lift
The PSP-3X is the largest camshaft that can
be used with stock on top shims"

I dont have any safe way to properly sink the valve guides. But i do have a grinder. 4thekz1000 i remember seeing that but i also remember hearing people talking about spitting shims sometimes with even milder lift cam.

Powerstroke_fan wrote: I dont have any safe way to properly sink the valve guides. But i do have a grinder. 4thekz1000 i remember seeing that but i also remember hearing people talking about spitting shims sometimes with even milder lift cam.

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Call Joe and talk to him about it. Star was selling a .425 that they claimed was a SOT cam. Run it till it blows, you only live twice......come-on-man !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I heard of a guy getting castrated by a spit shim using those PSP-3X cams..... :pinch:

Thats ok, id rather not talk to him. i dont care much for him. But ya, i hear some people say you can some say dont.

Are shim on top faster and easier ? Yes. Even if you only ride on the street, you didn't put all the performance parts in the motor to just cruise around and never twist the throttle. Street riding and the occassional red line shift is probably harder on the motor than the race track. It may take a little longer to do shim under, but the added safety is worth not injuring some expensive parts.

Ya, i know shim under is better, thats why ive been running them. But its ruining my head taking it apart all the time. Ive got probably 4 or 5 helicoiled cam caps now. Which the first two it was my fault, I followed the torque in my old cylmer manual. lol But ever since then i been torquing them to 8 in lbs i believe. But they still pull the threads, and i am tired of it. It also gets old taking a 30 min job and turning it into a hour job.

I you're having to do more than normal frequency adjustments you have head issues. I do a check and adjust if necessary on a fresh head between 200 and 300 miles then again at a 1000. Rarely do I have to adjust at a 1000. Shim under is a little more intense and takes longer but small price to pay for piece of mind on a $5,000 plus motor making good power. I'm running 84 GPZ cams in my turbo with shim under, factory did so I did, I'm sure they had a logical reason for it so I stuck with it.


Les

how often do you check and adjust (miles)?

Ive only had to adjust them three times in ruffly 4 thousand miles. First time it was breakin and then two other times. i try to check them ruffly around 1500 miles but iam not real strict on miles so it was probably slightly more. But they didnt need much each time. one time it was only one bucket that was barely out. But if you dont get them right the first time then you gotta pull the cams twice. The worse part is you dont know if its good till its back together. If majority of people dont think i should run those cams with shim over buckets ill put stock cams back in with shim over buckets.

Every 1500 miles :ohmy:
If I checked mine every 15 hundred miles i'd be in it every other month :laugh: .
I do mine every 8 or 9k miles.