KZ 1000 LTD, need new clutch, what should I get?

As known, a clutch may slip because of reasons other than worn plates.

If not already done, would perform a clutch push rod adjustment.

Clutch push rod adjustment -- Need and Purpose
[This is a 1 minute job from start to finish, maybe 2 minutes the first time.]

The FSM covering Z1 and KZ900 includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch push rod adjustment at 2000 mile (3000 km) intervals and explains the need therefor in separate text, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Besides cable stretch, clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment, with a decrease in push rod play. Due to this wear, the push rod gradually moves closer to the clutch release lever (at the lower end of the clutch cable) until it touches the adjusting screw. When the rod is touching the screw and therefore has no play, the clutch will not engage fully and clutch slippage will occur. Note that the clutch push rod does not necessarily have play just because the clutch hand lever has play, and so hand lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.


The FSM covering '77-'79 KZ1000's includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch adjustment at 5000 km intervals, and explains the need therefor in slightly different language, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment. This wear causes the play between the push rod and the adjusting screw to gradually diminish until the push rod touches the adjusting screw. When this play is lost, the clutch will not engage fully, causing the clutch to slip.
NOTE: Even though the proper amount of play exists at the clutch lever, clutch lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.

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While the clutch may indeed be worn out with plates needing replacement, it isn't uncommon to overlook or be unaware of the clutch push rod adjustment feature, especially without a manual. It is worrisome to see anyone of unknown experience, without a manual or failing to consult a manual, proceed with clutch disassembly and plate replacement, without first being aware of and considering the clutch push rod adjustment.

Where both (1) clutch cable slack adjustment is perfect, and (2) clutch push rod adjustment is perfect, and the clutch still slips, suspicion is certainly toward the plates being worn and needing replacement. But other things can also cause slippage, even with proper adjustments and good plates, such as glazed plates or improper oil being used in the crankcase.

The stock clutch is very robust and durable, and able to withstand considerable abuse.
Glazed plates usually are readily restoreable to serviceable condition.

Good Fortune!

Thanks Patton, but that can be ruled out. I recently adjusted the push rod per the manual, screwed all the way in and then half a turn out (I think).

screwed all the way in and then half a turn out

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this dosent sound right.....making me pause?????

Some of the manuals are incorrect or misleading.

If not already done, the following may not help -- but won't hurt :
Repeat the push rod adjustment and reverse the adjustment screw turning order.

Are the existing plates obviously worn down and beyond the possibility of de-glazing?

Good Fortune!

I agree, STOCK!
Did you know Blackbird and Busa frictions fit KZ's????????????????????
I HAVE RUN BOTH!
I like stock Busa's. They don't seem to break in the bottom of the basket as easily as stock KZ's.

To clarify, with "screwing all the way in" I mean turning the screw until there was just no more play at the rod. Then I turned it out half a turn and I could tell there was play at the rod.

Actually I haven't even looked at the plates. I got the bike a couple of months ago, but don't really know the history of the engine although it runs pretty well and I already put over 1200 mls on it. I have planned a 2500 mls tour for next spring and I want to change it more as a precaution, since I felt it slipping a few times.

Patton, I don't understand what you mean with "reverse the adjustment screw order". Thx

What oil has been used in the bike? If it's not up to the JASO-MA spec it may have coated your clutch plates with "friction modifiers" (probably moly). I suggest before buying anything you pull the plates and measure them to see if they are within the service limits (see Kawasaki Service Manual for specs.) If they are within the limits, clean them and reinstall being sure to use a torque wrench to apply the correct torque to the clutch springs. Then put in the correct oil type and you should be good to go. If you find they are worn beyond the service limit I would install stock plates and stock springs. They will work just fine for a long time. If you're not familiar with JASO-MA just ask and we can give a link to an explanation. Ed

anotherZ wrote: To clarify, with "screwing all the way in" I mean turning the screw until there was just no more play at the rod. Then I turned it out half a turn and I could tell there was play at the rod.

Actually I haven't even looked at the plates. I got the bike a couple of months ago, but don't really know the history of the engine although it runs pretty well and I already put over 1200 mls on it. I have planned a 2500 mls tour for next spring and I want to change it more as a precaution, since I felt it slipping a few times.

Patton, I don't understand what you mean with "reverse the adjustment screw order". Thx

Some earlier models such as Z1 and KZ900 were adjusted by first turning the screw in clockwise until lightly seated, and then turning the screw out counter-clockwise one-half turn.

Some later models are designed to be adjusted by first turning the screw out counter-clockwise until lightly seated, and then turning the screw in clockwise one-half turn.

A few manuals have reportedly provided erroneous instructions.

Good Fortune!

The reason for stressing proper adjustment, possible de-glazing, and correct oil, is that these often cheap and effective remedies are often overlooked or ignored before resorting to replacement of the plates.

The stock Kawasaki clutch plates are very robust, and can handle considerable abuse, and are so durable that they generally last a long long time.

Would do as 650ed suggests and determine serviceability of the existing plates before ordering new plates.

Good Fortune!

650Ed,
I did quite a bit of research regarding the oils I put in and I ended up using Rotella from Shell, since it hase the Jaso-MA spec.

Patton,
I think I did it right but I will check again. You guys convinced me to first look at the plates and not just replace them because I want to be super safe......I just wanted to be very well prepared for my trip, but I will disassemble the clutch now and take a look and decide from there on.

Thanks for all your help!

The parts diagram at kawasaki.com shows 1979 KZ1000 LTD as having a different clutch adjuster mechanism than the KZ900.



The KZ900 screw type is for sure turned in til seated, then out 1/2 turn.

Some of the later styles turned out til seated, then in 1/2 turn.

If the adjuster fails to produce the desired results when following manual, hurts nothing to attempt adjusting in the reverse order of turning the screw.

Is there specified slack in the clutch cable at the handlebar lever perch?

Are both cable ends fully seated in the mid-cable adjuster?

Is the cable fully seated inside the sprocket cover?

Is the adjuster mechanism correctly installed (properly oriented) inside the sprocket cover?

1979 KZ1000 LTD clutch is different than either of the above diagrams.



I don't know which way the 1979 KZ1000 LTD is actually supposed to be turned first in order to lightly seat the end of the screw against the push rod.

But I do know it doesn't hurt to try it both ways. :lol:

Good Fortune!

My engine is not an LTD engine, it's an MKII. I'll look at the adjuster again later, I don't remember out of my head what it looked like, but I am almost sure it needs to be turned in, then out. And I will NOT order new clutch plates before I have taken them out Thanks!