Turbo help please?

Patton wrote:

K.D. HART wrote: . . . I don't have a leak down tester. . . .

Can perform a poor man's leak down test by introducing compressed air into each spark plug hole and listening to where it escapes from the combustion clamber. This may be done at TDC or other cam positions where both valves are fully closed.

May introduce a spurt of compressed air by using a rubber cone-tip blow gun (rubber air nozzle) held into the spark plug hole. And of course keep holding it in position to keep air from coming back out the spark plug hole while listening for escaping air at other places. The air compressor should not be running while listening because the noise will likely drown out any sound of escaping air.

Air heard escaping from crankcase breather would indicate loss of compression past rings into crankcase.

Good Fortune!

I can do that as soon as I get another rubber tipped blower. The rubber rotted off the one I have.

Patton wrote:

K.D. HART wrote: . . . The breather is a brand new K and N and it's big enough to use on a V8 engine. I tested it by blowing air through the vent hose attached to the KZ 650 vent cover. It was like no filter was even there.

KZ650 vent cover ? :S

Good Fortune!

Yes, I didn't have enough room for a breather tube with the 900 cover because of the turbo.
Jeff Saunders has the same thing on his bike.

turboking wrote: I just noticed from your photo that you have the low profile crank case vent off of a J model or GPZ .....that may be part of the oil blowing up the vent line problem as the one that you are using has no baffling at all........ like the double baffles of the earlier models kz1000/Z1........ a larger old style will fit

Yes they fit, but there is no room to attach a breather line because of the turbo clearance.
Can you post a pic of how you run a breather/catch can on your bike?

I do not run any breather tube or catch can on any of my turbo's as I have no oil/case pressure issues............. :whistle:
you can drill & tap the early vent .......the vent can casting is thick enough , install 1 or 2 3/8 pipe 90 degree vents off the side up high towards the top on the side of the vent can, so you do not have the height issue....... I have one here like that off an old build... I just have to locate it to take a pic.
still your oily issue may be cylinder/ring related.... you really need to do a leak down test to be sure......I think the waste gate looks to be like the type RB racing and rc engineering used.......not positive though HTH

Not the best picture , but hope this helps. Welded large ID 90degree elbow to cam cover and run half inch ID hose to drive chain BEHIND the front of the rear tire. This has worked fine for 30 years. I deleted catch can when I stopped racing at the strip.

turboking wrote: I do not run any breather tube or catch can on any of my turbo's as I have no oil/case pressure issues............. :whistle:
you can drill & tap the early vent .......the vent can casting is thick enough , install 1 or 2 3/8 pipe 90 degree vents off the side up high towards the top on the side of the vent can, so you do not have the height issue....... I have one here like that off an old build... I just have to locate it to take a pic.
still your oily issue may be cylinder/ring related.... you really need to do a leak down test to be sure......I think the waste gate looks to be like the type RB racing and rc engineering used.......not positive though HTH

I think I'm going to ditch the KZ650 crank case breather cover and just mod my old one.
I'll just relocate the breather vent tube to the side of the 900 cover.
I picked up a leak down tester today. I'll see what my readings are before I vent the valve covers

Street Fighter LTD wrote: Not the best picture , but hope this helps. Welded large ID 90degree elbow to cam cover and run half inch ID hose to drive chain BEHIND the front of the rear tire. This has worked fine for 30 years. I deleted catch can when I stopped racing at the strip.

I like the location of that 90. Does much oil drain out?
If I end up venting my valve cover, I was going to "T" my drain hose to the crank case vent tube and let any run over go back into the motor.

Oil return from turbo needs to be -10 (at least 5/8") and a down hill run.
Mine is to a tapped hole in the kick start area.
Oil return in your pics is no good, my opinion.
Oil in turbo compressor?
You will have to run it quite a while after fixing it to blow out any residual oil.
I use short GPZ oil breather cover, no problem.

I just did a quick leak down test on #1 cylinder at TDC. The engine was cold.
I checked the #1 cylinder 4 times, just to see if the readings would be the same.
The first time I got a 15% leak down reading and then the 3 times after that, I got 30%

hello from norway . It was the same with my engine spitting oil out, then i changed hose and fitting from return to a bigger one.
and also made a new vent hose and a catch tank under seat. I am also using the low breather cap.
I have been doing turbo cars for many years and the return hose is very critical. Bad picture but mine is down hill from turbo

mrdatsunturbo wrote: hello from norway . It was the same with my engine spitting oil out, then i changed hose and fitting from return to a bigger one.
and also made a new vent hose and a catch tank under seat. I am also using the low breather cap.
I have been doing turbo cars for many years and the return hose is very critical. Bad picture but mine is down hill from turbo

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Thank you.
Can you still use your kick starter with that setup?
My neighbor Shawn Jensen married a girl from Norway and moved over there this summer.
I'll miss him and her. His wife always liked my chili and would tell me stories about your country.
She told me all about getting reindeer meat each year in the mountains and kept me up with info on the guy who shot all those kids on that island and the special prison they built just for him.
Your country is very beautiful also.

Drain being 3/8" doesn't bother me, but he angle does. As stated, needs to be all down hill run, and the more vertical the better. Another question is, how much oil do you have in the outlet of your turbo? The reason I ask is, some should be expected especially if it a street driven bike. The compressor side piston seal which is what keeps oil in your bearing housing and out of your compressor housing and is designed to handle a pressure differential between the oil pressure it sees on one side and boost pressure on the other. If the bike sees more idle and low boost time due to part throttle, the pressure difference is much greater and thus oil will seep into the compressor housing. The only way to prevent this would be a greater amount of time riding at boost pressures that are closer or above the oil pressure witnessed by the oil seal. Even if you clean it out, continued part throttle riding will just allow it to return. Oil residue is common on street turbo applications and is normal. No harm is done. Now if you have a lot of oil in you compressor housing then you have an issue to correct. If you have any additional turbo questions you can PM me. I am in a deer stand this weekend, so I may be slow to reply.

Cory